The same thing happened to a friend with a V-Strom 2002 (at 199 999 km). Suzuki Canada gave him a brand new speedo even if the bike was out of warranty...
I gave a new take-off (0km) from my S to a good home for this exact reason a few months ago. The odometer can be reset, but it is involved and not for the technically challenged. It requires de-soldering a chip and overwriting distance values. There's articles describing the process floating around the net, but none are DRZ specific so need to be adapted.
In trying to improve the front brake on my DRZ400SM I upgraded to SS brake lines, and also I am running better EBC pads. With the squishy stock brake lines, the lever would get pulled nearly all the way in before any power would get applied, but now with the tighter SS lines all the action happens far out and my bitch fingers get tired easily having to reach out that far. Also the required lever pull is much shorter now too. Any recommendations for brake levers that can move the lever closer in, and maybe add some improved feel. I know a lot of folks get better calipers and such, but I am looking for best cheap options.
My stock brake lever was adjustable. Is yours not? I got Zeta shortys but am not happy with them. Review is a couple of pages back.
Oh yeah, I'll try the stock adjustment. I guess I didn't like how using that adjustment to move things inward makes it floppy, but I'll give it a try.
I've reshaped the seat again. I'm able to touch tippy toes. I'm concerned when I replace bald rear tire I won't be as comfortable. Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
You can replace the tires with a bit smaller sizes to drop seat height some . It depends which size is on there now though , there is a limit to how small will work. .
You dropped the rear, did you drop the front yet? If you put risers on the bars, you should be able to get 2" of drop on the front to go with the rear. Narrow the front of that seat as much as possible so you can keep your legs close to the bike and make sure preload is set appropriately for your weight and someone much larger. If you're strong enough, don't forget you can just lean it over at a stop. I do this with my GSA... doesn't take a lot to get some inches but that doesn't help when offroad and you need to put a foot down but can't reach. I'm sure you will figure it out. Plenty of kids out there riding that can't get even a toe down... they also bounce better than adults do
Take off your suspension, bring it to someone who can work on it and ask to shortened it. I did that on my S and SM. It's better to work on suspension than lowering links if you want to keep a good geometry with your bike. Low seats are ok, but for longer ride, you will feel uncomfortable with your legs.
I just joined the DR-Z club today. I picked this one up today. 2002 garage kept with 5800 miles in like new condition. I hate to take this out in the dirt. It has airbox mod, dynajetted carb and full FWF Powerbomb exhaust. I didn’t complain too much at $3500 price tag.
It says in the manual that the odo stops at 99999.9. The VStroms are the same except they stop at 199999.9. They get an extra 100000 kms or miles.
This is All Balls steering kit with seals , but not individual pieces , http://www.allballsracing.com/22-1013.html I've not taken mine apart to lube but being taper bearings , they need separate seals .The listed beraing size is 30 x 52 x 16 for both. Maybe calling All Balls will get some seals on their own . I've often just measured the OD and ID needed plus whatever thickness will fit and do a quick google search for seals and several options pop up. These need the inner section to be a simple steel plate so the nut can pinch it against the bearing to preload the steering , don't know what seal type that would fall under. .
Yep... The DRZs rear link geometry produces an effective spring rate close to linear. The problem with lowering links is that it changes the lever ratio and the effective spring rate becomes digressive... ie gets softer through it's travel, puts the tyre into contact with the fender and the mooshy rear has the affect of unloading the front wheel. People also want to be very careful dropping the front in the clamps to match. There is some wiggle room, but must be checked (don't believe anything on the internet) because bottoming the front tyre is serious business. Darwin is a cruel and unforgiving bastard.
Me three! Got a 2015 Aussie E. Came up at the right price from the right seller. Been looking at getting a thumper for a while, the DRZ took the space in my garage.
great pickup but I wouldn't call $3500 for a 15 year old bike with an original MSRP of $5400 a "deal" when a brand new one can be had for $6700. I don't mean this as an insult... just informing people. In my area.. for this bike I would expect $1500-2500 sale price unless it was fully outfitted to head to Alaska. Super clean though. Maybe prices are super inflated in Georgia...
I think it depends on if you can plate a dirt bike where you live or not. Out here an E will be 1500 or so but an s or sm is quite a bit more. Also, out here the 6700 is just the start and once you add fees and taxes, you're looking at over 8.
