Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by bmwhd, Dec 2, 2005.
Seats this one https://seatconcepts.com/collections/kawasaki/products/kawasaki-2009-14-klx250s-sf
love my seat concepts.. very comfy!
I had a DOH! moment today. I went hiking in the mountains so I only wore my helmet and elbow guards. It was 99.9% pavement. The mountains here have smaller crappy concrete-like roads. Often broken in places and sometimes has this moss growing on it that acts like ice when wet.
So I’m going downhill, a bit steep. Taking things easy. The road is wet and dark colored. All at once I my front tire loses grip and goes sideways. I try saving it and then the rear loses grip. I bailed out right as it’s going down. SMACK! and the bike slides a good 10 feet, motor still spinning. I did a couple “almost somersaults” and banged up my knee pretty good.
I shake myself off and pick up the bike. Rear brake lever is smashed inwards. Ok, no big deal. Still works. I have no idea what was on the ground but it went for a good 100 meters and was as slick as ice. Just a brownish color. Not mud, but something else. (Dark moss maybe) Anyway, I pick up the bike and decide to just walk it down carefully. I take two steps and we both start sliding again! Bike goes down on the OTHER side. This time smashing the shifter lever. Bent it upwards and left a nice gash on the side of the engine. Doh!
Took some doing but I got it past that section without dropping it again. Going back up later in the day when it was raining had some major pucker factor. :) Momentum and keeping her straight did the job.
So question, does someone make a protector for the side of the engine that the shifter (longer shifter in my case) would hit when you go down?
In the old days some would weld a small plate on the back side of the shifter to spread any load over the engine case. On the BSA and Triumphs with right hand shifters, the brake pedals had the plate welded on them since they could easily poke a hole in the huge primary case. Light, simple. With a bunch of work one could make a bit of a case saver of some sort over the case.
@Dan888 fabricated one. https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/klx-250s-71/case-saver-39919/
ironically.. Pro Cycle sells stuff like this for the DR650. but none for the KLX..
Seat concepts seat was the best aftermarket item I got for my KLX
4 likes is good enough for me Ordered ! Thanks guys
Get in line , ordered mine a few days ago. Got it 1/2 step softer foam for my old bottom
Nice seats .. expensive tho $850 lol!
Noguchi king of seat
I suggest the grippy material for the top of the Seat Concepts and for an extra level of comfort put an Alaskan Sheepskin on top of it.
While I’m working on the bike I wanted to test the thermostat. Kawasaki spec for opening is 157-163f. I sat around with it at 163 for a while, no action. Bumped the temp up 10 degrees, started to see some action. Finally once I gradually got it to 180 it was fully open. So I ordered a new one. I don’t think 10 degrees would be a problem but closer to 20 and it might be a sign on impending failure.
they are cheap.. order new one...
I said I did ¯\_ ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) _/¯
an other weekend ride with the klx.. discovered i only had 5lbs of air in the front tire.. must be the rim locks keeping it secure cause they didnt budge.. even with a 280lb guy on it.. lol
@MrCrisper i only saw pictures and didnt read. I color outside the lines too
No pinch flat?! WOW!!! 5# holding up 280
Consider this - Thermo Bob. Keeps consistent cylinder temperatures before thermostat opens.
click here to get information. Definitely read the testing, shows what occurs.
I was considering it before I ordered the replacement thermostat but the searching I did around this thread didn’t make me think it was a widely adopted modification in the KLX circle. I understand the concept and it makes sense, but I can’t think of what issue I’m having that it would really cure, unless there’s something I’m missing.
I thought of something Mark, I could replicate the results of the Thermobob very easily since there is a coolant passage that’s plugged on the head for the carb heater line for the Australian model.
I could simply connect a line to a “T” in the return line to the water pump from the plugged port and boom, built in Thermo Bob
Am I on to something here?