MOSFET voltage regulator upgrade

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by DYNOBOB, Feb 27, 2018.

  1. DYNOBOB

    DYNOBOB lucky dog

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    Posted this in the TE630 thread and thought I'd share it down here also. The specifics won't apply to other bikes but the concept will.

    I'm at 12,500 miles now, decided it's time for a good check-up during the off season. Going over the wiring, subframe, valve check, clutch basket, fork oil, coolant, oil, spark plug. May clean the injector and put in a new clutch pack.

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    It's been on my mind for a couple years to swap the stock SCR shunt type voltage regulator for a MOS-FET unit from a late model Yamaha so picked up a used one from a wrecked '16 FJR1300 on Ebay for $50. Shindengen FH020AA (Yamaha 1D7-81960-01-00) is the part. It's a little larger than stock but I think it will fit on the subframe near the stock location. Also requires a bit of re-wiring, I'll post more pics when I get that far.

    [Maybe worth explaining... The stock "SCR shunt" r/r is drawing full power from the stator at all time and shunting the unneeded power to ground. The FJR1300 was one of the first bikes to switch to a MOS-FET shunt style where the stator is still running at 100% but the voltage is much better controlled. The bike will now consistently charge at 14+ volts (less is being shunted) and the voltage won't drop as the bike revs up. I debated going with the even newer "series" style r/r from the '16 DL1000 (Shindengen SH847AA), it only draws the current that the bike is actually using and is much easier on stators. It's a big sucker though (4.5x4.5x1.75) and would be tough to mount IMO.]

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    Make sure it's a FH020AA and not a FH012AA
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    Found something I suspected I might in the wiring harness. The stator wires at the plug above the engine showed brown heat discoloration on the regulator side of the plug.

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    After some effort I got it unplugged and found melting inside. Even though the connectors don't look corroded it's a resistance point and heat builds up. This is pretty common on motorcycles and will be alleviated somewhat with the new MOS-FET regulator and removing this plug.

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    It's always bothered me that the stator/CPS wires ran up the front, right next to the headers. They are going to get re-routed to the new regulator wherever it ends up.

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    The mosfet unit is too big to fit in the stock location so I'm going to mount it on the opposite side of the subframe. The side cover fits back on perfectly without touching the regulator. When totally done, I'll secure it with stainless zip-ties (or may have my welder attach a plate there while he fixes my battery box). This regulator is designed for ~600 watts and this bike is 365 so it will be very under stressed in this application, I have no concerns about heat dissipation.

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    A big advantage of this location is the stator wires (once the melted plug is cut off) will reach the regulator without lengthening the wires. You'll need to slit the protective cover and fold the CPS wires back to their plug and re-tape the covering.

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    Secured the wires away from the exhaust (may add some heat-proof sheathing).
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    CPS wires in upper right.
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    Next I pulled the regulator end of the harness to the left side of the bike and cut off the plug.
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    The regulator plug was nearly toast. The insulation was brittle and cracked. I was on borrowed time with this charging system.
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    I slit the harness open and pulled the yellow wires out. The only wire you need here is the red wire to feed the bike harness. While the harness was open I added a second red 12ga wire that will go straight to the battery.
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    With everything connected. There are two 12ga wires going to the positive terminal and one 10ga ground that goes straight to the battery.
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    For now the new power and ground twisted together. Lots of maintenance items left before putting it all back together.
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    After removing my subframe to weld the battery box I put everything back together. I'm happy with how everything fits and the efficiency of the wiring layout. With the bike running I now have a dead steady 14.3 volts at idle or revved up. Very, very happy with this! I don't expect to have charging system issues with this bike for a long time.

    So this is how it finished up. I did make a heat shield to protect the RR from the exhaust system. Will remove the shield an hit it w/ a coat of barbecue paint.

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    #1
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  2. darkstarmoto

    darkstarmoto Am I evil? Yes I am

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    #2
  3. DYNOBOB

    DYNOBOB lucky dog

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    Good comment.

    I considered getting those but opted to shoot my connectors full of dielectric grease.

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    #3
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  4. DYNOBOB

    DYNOBOB lucky dog

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    #4
  5. dtysdalx2

    dtysdalx2 PITA but useful

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    I've wondered lately how much drag and HP a magneto uses up on motorcycles. Maybe different R/R's drag down the motor less. :hmmmmm
    #5
  6. local1

    local1 Long timer

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    I wouldn't replace the clutch pack? I would just take course sandpaper to the steel plates. Maybe even shim out the springs with sparkplug washers?
    #6
  7. Langanobob

    Langanobob Been here awhile

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    Good and useful write-up and photo's. Thanks for taking the time.
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  8. shakeybone

    shakeybone Long timer

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    #8
  9. sashapave

    sashapave riders on the strom

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    Nice, thanks a for the write up! Just replaced my ‘09 TE610 RR in a recent Baja trip. My buddy carried an spare FH008EE (from a cbr600rr) for his ktm 690. Worked perfectly. Of course my battery was fried as a result.

    It’s funny, he was always teased for carrying an extra rectifier/reg, but 3 days down from the border I thought otherwise :)

    I just picked up another one from eBay for $40, cuz you never know...
    #9
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  10. BLucare

    BLucare ADV General Counsel

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    Nice write-up, @DYNOBOB. Slightly off-topic, but you seem like a good guy to ask - what are the three fuses for, near the OEM location for the R/R? I have a new waterproof fuse block for them on my 2008 TE610 that I'm ready to install, but I don't really even know what the fuses are that I'm protecting :lol3 Cheers.

    BL
    #10
  11. DYNOBOB

    DYNOBOB lucky dog

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    FYI, the fuses are mislabeled on the plastic cover (on a 630 at least). Here is my post on this and it shows what fuse is what. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te630-blowing-fuel-pump-fuse.28893/#post-260369

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    #11
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  12. EchoWars

    EchoWars Adventurer

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    Good location, but as others have suggested, a waterproof connector is a way good idea. I'd never simply plug in the spade lugs and call it 'good'. Seems like a way to simply beg for future issues.
    #12
  13. DYNOBOB

    DYNOBOB lucky dog

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    Keep in mind the regulators themselves are waterproof, and my connectors are full of dielectric grease w/ heatshrink tube around them.

    Also, very few people possess the tools to correctly crimp the spade lugs that come with the waterproof connectors.

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    #13
  14. EchoWars

    EchoWars Adventurer

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    If you mash the connectors carefully with some small needlenose pliers, then solder the connection, you'll be about as good as humanly possible. Slip some shrinkwrap over the solder, and it's neat as well.

    If the tool is something you must have, Harbor Freight has it for $15. You might need to search for a different die set, but they're around if you look.
    #14
  15. DYNOBOB

    DYNOBOB lucky dog

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    Like I said, very few people have the correct tool... :-)

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  16. sashapave

    sashapave riders on the strom

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    I finally got a look at the stator wires under the tank and the round barrel connector had some molten plastic, cables discolored.

    Instead of replacing that connector, I just snipped it off, cut out the burned wire and soldered it back together, wrapped in heat shrink.

    I was tempted to replace the entire length of the wire, but I'll try this first. Hopefully with the new Mosfet RR it will produce less heat in the wires.

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    #16
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  17. DYNOBOB

    DYNOBOB lucky dog

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    How many miles on yours?

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  18. sashapave

    sashapave riders on the strom

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    For the replacement RR, I got a used one from ebay for $40, then ordered a connector from CycleTerminal.

    I was originally looking to replace the connector with a waterproof one, but I didn't have the right crimper. These connectors should be sufficient if I use some dialectic grease & heat shrink.

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    #18
  19. FTL900

    FTL900 White and nerdy

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    I read this article a few years ago... until my brain hurt, then I went to the reference chart and picked up 2 MOSFET units on ebay from 2005 ZX10s.
    One for my VFR800 and one for the VTR1000.
    The VFR has moved on to another home, but my son still owns the Superhawk, and it's doing great.


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    #19
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  20. sashapave

    sashapave riders on the strom

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    ~11k miles on the stock RR. The battery is 5 years old which I think may have contributed to the burned out RR. I'm also putting on a tiny volt meter to monitor it.

    I was debating replacing the battery with a lithium. I'm running a WPS lithium on my dirt bike and love the weight savings, but ended up going with a Yuasa brand AGM for the Husky. $72 at amazon.

    I was almost stranded in Baja 3 days from the border, don't want to add any risk from the steep drop-off curve from a lithium. Plus these big thumpers are a bitch to bump start. I wish they'd come with a kick starter.
    #20