Mutilating an offroader into some sort of scrambler

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by Dino de Laurentiis, Jan 7, 2018.

  1. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    Looking good! I would treat the areas with a rust converter and go with a metal bondo type filler. But others may have a better idea.
    #21
  2. Bt10

    Bt10 Been here awhile

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    Just some options - I never grind away good metal chasing the deepest pits; I just sandblast. Rust eating acid and braze would be a good option, otherwise the converter and paint.

    :lurk
    #22
  3. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Yeah, we do have a soda blasting setup but the cabinet can only take smaller items. Long time readers of ADVrider might know the perils of soda blasting....

    Some of the metal I needed to remove here, especially the spot welded remains of the screw on sheet metal strip.
    #23
  4. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    What is a good brand of rust converter?

    You think metal epoxy/bondo is fine also on the sides? I’m just a bit concerned with the thinness of the metal there after grinding, and if there’d be any eventual leak through a rust pin prick, it’d risk ruin the paint since the metal epoxy probably isn’t as vapor proof as lead filler?
    #24
  5. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    I use this: https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.html Makes a really nice paintable surface. I am sure that bondo would stick nicely. I am not so sure that lead over rust is a good idea. As for tank rust, if you have it, you need to treat and seal it too. Rust on the inside will only get worse over time. If you convert the rust on the outside, that stops it dead.
    #25
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  6. Frey

    Frey motocrossdresser

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    Cheap rust converter is CLR (calcium, lime, rust) the grey bottled bathroom cleaner. It is a great pre primer for rusty metal. As for rusty tanks, I've had great results with grind to bare metal, brake cleaner, and then JB weld... JB weld cures great with some heat (like a light bulb)
    #26
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  7. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Right, I didn’t mean to leave the rust as it is. Just that any metal left after rust removal would be so thin that it’d vibrate open into a tiny leak or that rust removal itself would cause these pin prick leaks that are sometimes hard to spot with the naked eye. Maybe I’m just overly cautious? After all, I’ve used metal epoxy to seal a crack in the stator cover, and it hasn’t started leaking in the more than 16 000 km I’ve driven since.

    Inside of tank looks spotless as far as I can tell, no visible rust.
    #27
  8. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Ok, good to hear. Maybe I’ll just go with the metal epoxy then. Certainly nicer to work with.
    #28
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  9. Frey

    Frey motocrossdresser

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    It's worth noting that when sanding epoxy and metal the epoxy sands faster and will often create a subtle shallow area... Take some care when doing this and maybe use some bondo to blend it all together.
    #29
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  10. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    The wheel set I originally had is off eBay. Issue with that set is that the rear wheel has no cush drive. So, I got a new rear from Haan Wheels. Very very nice, excellent quality (new wheel on the right). I’ll get the spokes of the front wheel treated to a similar finish as the new rear.

    53613BAB-856D-4603-BEB4-A26A5BC5B065.jpeg

    I’m trying the 3M tape tubeless conversion, let’s se how it turns out with this wheel. Issue is the spoke nipples protrude quite a bit so the 3M tape wrinkles. The tape is really stick and almost mashable so I hope it will stay air tight.

    76C54CD0-91B1-4E6C-8D01-98A88B784193.jpeg

    I used the valve stem from an inner tube, since it’s seemingly really hard to find 8 mm valve stems (most or all tubeless rims have 11 mm valve stems). Maybe it’ll be a bit unbalanced but should help seal the tire. I overlapped the 3M tape on the opposite side to offset the weight ever so slightly.

    C4E3114E-84E1-4092-BC6B-E2F930481D9F.jpeg

    I’ve covered it the whole thing with some aluminium tape, which should help keep the sealing tape in place. I’ll swap the tire to the new wheel today, here’s hoping it’s sealing well...

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    #30
  11. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    One issue with the new rear wheel is that it’s made for a KTM and my bike is not a KTM... I knew already before that the hub was 2 mm wider than the stock one. I just didn’t expect those extra mm to end up between sprocket and swing arm...

    Stock wheel/hub with sprocket:
    763D32EB-7A7D-4944-8942-12CE3AE8345E.jpeg

    New wheel with sprocket:
    8663007D-95D8-4B38-9BBE-38783C76DB18.jpeg

    Picture lies a little bit, but there’s a 3 mm difference between the two; the spacer on the new wheel protrudes a bit more pushing the wheel sprocket out of alignment with the countershaft sprocket by the same amount. Fortunately I think I can solve it by replacing the seal with a 5 mm one (current is 7 mm) and machine off 2 mm at the bottom of the wheel spacer, and 0,5 mm at the top. A chain 0,5 mm out of alignment should be within the margin of error, no?

    44536C85-05F2-40C8-81CE-22224471B2F0.jpeg
    #31
  12. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Well, whaddayeknow? The tubeless conversion is an initial success, the wheel holds air at least. Here it is with the freshly matt black painted caliper trial mounted as well. I’ll leave it on there until next time I’m in the garage (about a week) to see if pressure maintains. Next trial is of course to see how it holds up when running the bike but that’s quite a bit in the future.

    Interestingly, the entire new wheel assembly (tire, brake disc, sprocket) is just 0,1 kg heavier than the old one despite the new one having a cush drive. When comparing just the wheel weight, turns out the weight gain from the tubeless conversion is about 0,4 kg, that is almost a full pound of rotating mass. Not bad!

    2F36DFA4-E9CB-439B-9C1F-C609939B018A.jpeg
    #32
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  13. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Wheel still holds air!

    I’ve gotten started on bondoing up the tank, think it can be quite nice once I'm finished. I won't paint it myself so I'm not to concerned if there are some tiny spot that aren't supersmooth. The painter will need to do quite a bit of prep work on this tank anyway since the underside has a lot of surface rust. As for treating the rusted surfaces on the top/sides, I went with JimVonBadens rust converter tip, seems solid. In the end, I had to grind away all of the mounting tabs, as they are just spot welded, so there was a large rusted area under the rear tab that I just couldn't get to without removing the metal completely. Suppose the remaining metal is quite thin, so I hope the bondo will help it stay together.

    IMG_2994.JPG



    It looked like this before:
    before.jpg


    And currently it looks like this. I'm quite happy with the way it turned out.

    IMG_3065.JPG
    #33
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  14. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Speaking of which, would anyone know of a gas cap that fits a 39 mm bayonet style filler neck? Suppose I could paint the stock one, but it’d be nice with something a little fancier.
    #34
  15. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Not much progress to report, but I got a couple of new parts. A 42t rear sprocket (SuperSprox Stealth) and 15t front (JT), which gives 2.4% taller gearing compared to the stock 15/43. I would’ve preferred a 16/43 (5% taller than stock) but unfortunately that’s not a recommended setup with a 520-chain. Obviously gold coloured rear sprocket...

    1EAA5BEB-4017-429B-90C8-855CD952CFB0.jpeg

    Also finally received the Beringer master cylinder and clutch lever that I ordered a month and a half ago. Guess the French took a long Christmas holiday... I’ll wire up buttons, turn signals and heated grips with all cables run inside the handle bar.

    BBDCEF64-342F-4D35-8155-B4C4670EF78D.jpeg

    B0BF791F-9B26-4858-ACA3-0CD49860DA54.jpeg
    #35
  16. Wildebeest90210

    Wildebeest90210 Long timer

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    I have used Beringer, you wonder where the money goes until you have them :viking
    #36
  17. dbarale

    dbarale Squiddly slow

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    I don’t know. I actually like the old school look of the one you have now.
    #37
  18. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    I hope you mean that in a they’re so good they’re worth it? i mean, they do have a very nice look and feel to them when just dry pulling them, but certainly quite pricey...
    #38
  19. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Yeah, maybe you’re right? I’m honestly not sure what an alternative one should look like anyway. Like, a cnc:ed alu one wouldn’t be right, and I rather it wasn’t a chromed item either, since I don’t really plan on having any polished metal items anywhere else on the bike (well, except the inner fork legs). Just feels like the stock one, painted in the colour of the rest of the bike would be a bit plain.
    #39
  20. Roofchop

    Roofchop Been here awhile

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    You could just paint that cap black.
    Simple, cheap and would tie in nicely.
    Or try to color match you gold anodizing.... (silver then candy gold)

    Dave
    #40