My KTM 950 Story....lots of pics!

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by Pyndon, Jun 23, 2006.

  1. uk_mouse

    uk_mouse Aquatic adventurer

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    Hmm, interesting, I think I missed the significance of that TSB. My clutch is like Pyndon's old one, with the steel strap round it. I've got the bike apart currently, I'd better measure that strap and see if I have the 1mm or 0.8mm version.

    Although my clutch basket is getting pretty worn on the splines anyway, where the plates have notched the alloy. I was thinking of getting a new one for that reasons ... but they're about £400, right Pyndon?

    Cheaper than a self destructing engine though, I suppose!
  2. Vicks

    Vicks gets stuck in sand

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    +1 on the gasket getting damaged. For my upcoming ride, i'm gonna tape a an old gasket (in good shape) to the underside of the seat for those situations. and carry a 13mm socket
  3. Pyndon

    Pyndon Long timer

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    I would not worry about the grooving / wear on the fingers of the outer basket or grooves of the inner, this is pretty normal. I would worry about the band though, I have seen evidence of the rivets failing and the band coming loose on higher mileage bikes regardless of band thickness.

    It is bound to be cheaper to replace it now than when (or if) it lets go....yes.
  4. aurel

    aurel Cheese&Wine!

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    Pyndon,

    Does your inner basket has some free play ? (forward/backward or side-to-side)
    nk14zp likes this.
  5. Pyndon

    Pyndon Long timer

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    Aurel.

    There is a little bit of play as the nut clamps the booster driver and not the inner basket. The rotary play you can feel is clearance in the drive pegs and a small amount of 'wobbling' of the inner basket is normal too, just build tolerances. The way the clutch booster works eliminates this play as soon as drive engages and the clutch pack is pulled together.

    Pyn
  6. aurel

    aurel Cheese&Wine!

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    Thank you for your answer :thumb
  7. Pyndon

    Pyndon Long timer

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    Time for an update.....it's been a while.

    So, bike was starting to run like shit, vibrating real bad through the pegs on my last long trip and back-firing on over-run really bad. I mean really bad, especially at low revs, which was really annoying in a town when your trying to be quiet. It would also pop slightly from time to time on idle....weird!

    Granted the bike has done 61,000 miles but it is maintained meticulously and just recently it seems like every time I ride it there's something, just niggling away at me, just not the way I like it. Nothing serious or that would put a trip in jeopardy but just things that need sorting.

    It also needed new rubber seals on all three brake callipers and it had a water leak too :baldy so it was time to pull it in the shop again!

    My initial thought on the popping was an exhaust leak but I've just changed from an Akra silencer to Leo Vince recently and in doing so changed all the seal rings, so if it was that I'd have thought it would have stopped, instead it seemed more pronounced.

    Water leak was just one of the silicone hoses that had settled since they were fitted and the clip was a little slack - a little adjustment of the clip position and a tweak got that sorted.

    Yesterday I was hauling ass back home on the bike and all sorts was mulling through my head, could the popping be a valve on it's way out?, have I got an intake leak?, is there a carburetion problem?. Suddenly something dawned on me.....FECK! Last time I checked the carb balance was like 30,000miles ago. :doh But surely that won't make it pop right, I ask myself in my helmet, oh well, worth checking.

    So pulled it in the shop, set to changing the brake calliper slider pin seals and whipped the airbox off to ballance the carbs. Blow me! They were almost 55mm of vacuum out at 5000rpm :eek1 :eek1 :eek1

    The linkage had warn and settled etc so much that it took almost a full turn to set it right.....too much ragging on the throttle I reckon :deal

    Now most people would not own up to this ill-maintenance but me being me, I knew I should share for future reference.

    I AM ASHAMED NONETHELESS!! :hide

    I've been out on the bike since and it's a different beast. Smoother and much quieter and the loud popping has gone and is replaced the the most amazing 'butble' on overrun....music to my ears! :deal

    I can maintain a much steadier idle now too.

    Oh, one last thing / future development. I was having no end of trouble with cam-chain noise at low revs when the engine has been worked hard and it very hot. I even had to up the idle to 2000rpm to stop it clacking on the last trip.

    I recently inspected the cam-chain tensioners and the specs were sweet so it was not die to excessive blow by there. My guess is that the oil pump tolerances are getting a little slack and when the oil is hot / thin less oil is pumped :dunno

    Anyway, not to start an oil thread again BUT, I changed the oil from from 'whateverbrand' 10/50 to 'whateverbrand' 10/60 to offer the same viscosity when cold but a little thicker at hot temps and it seems to have helped no end. I'm back down to 1400rpm idle and suffer no more clacking, even after a good motorway thrashing! It's not conclusive but the theory makes sense :D

    Happy riding.

    :pynd
  8. ryanwilliamcantrell

    ryanwilliamcantrell Get Out and Ride!!

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    Where is this located?? I'm having these exact same symptoms... but need to know where to tear into it, to find this tab.
  9. mookymoo

    mookymoo Mookish Mook

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    Starter relay.
    Right-hand-side of the bike - on the side of the battery box.
  10. ryanwilliamcantrell

    ryanwilliamcantrell Get Out and Ride!!

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    Thanks ~ that'll save me from pulling a dozen un-needed parts off. :thumb
  11. DeeGee

    DeeGee I'm a Yorkshireman thanoz

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    Eyup Pyn, where'd you get the carb balancer from? I've just done my valve clearances and both exhaust clearances were out by quite a bit, suggesting the bike's running rich? I've just called Appleyards and they quoted me £50 for them doing. £50 could be put towards the balancer and I could learn how to do them myself.

    Cheers

    DG
  12. tahoeacr

    tahoeacr Long timer

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    When oil temps get up to 225, I've seen pressures of 10-15 at idle(very noisey) depending on whatever brand oil. KTM min. is 11.7 I think. I didn't like that and with the fact it's not hard to get the oil that hot off road I did an oil cooler with a thermastat. Go to your local Wal-mart type store over there and pick up a cheapy cooking thermometer you can stick in the tank to check temps.
  13. Pyndon

    Pyndon Long timer

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    DG, you can get a cheap set which will get you somewhere close (especially when they were as far out as mine :hide). It takes 10 minutes to do if you have extended lines on to reach the vacuum ports - if not you have to strip the right tank.

    I can sell you a set of gauges at Yorkshire price :D if you want and bring them with me this weekend if your going to be there? Hell, I'll even throw in some training :ear



    I'd be interested to see what pressures you'd see with a 10/60 at 225? Just to see if it made a difference.
  14. DeeGee

    DeeGee I'm a Yorkshireman thanoz

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    Whoa whoa whoa!!!! Just remember where these bikes and the mechanical knowledge and know how you and I have is like a Premiership footballer and a Sunday league player :D

    Can't make this weekend as I'm back in work tomorrow and I'm in all weekend. I'm interested in a set (especially at Yorkshire prices :wink: ) and the training though, maybe we can hook up another time? :ear Then at least you'll be able to compare the figures?
  15. Pyndon

    Pyndon Long timer

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    Ok so it's been a while since I've been here and I was just working on the bike when I realised I did not post pics of my front brake line set-up that I did just before the last trip, so here goes.

    I was sick of the front brake line interfering with the dash all the time and not only that, it was limiting my options of mounting instruments such as GPS and road book etc when required so, I sorted it and here was the solution.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Only thing I made was this little transfer tube / bracket. The rest of the parts I bought off the shelf and made the brake lines up myself.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Done 5000 miles of mixed terrain with it like this and I like it....and....when I want to run single disk set-up I just blank one side. No changes required either with switches from low to high fender which was one of my frustrations with earlier set-ups.

    Just thought I'd share it with you quickly. When I get the bike on lay-up for a week or so I will remove it and get it treated properly. The red-oxide primer was just a bit of last minute protection the night before I left on a trip :D

    Pyn
  16. hilslamer

    hilslamer 2XRedheadedstepchild

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    ANy chance you can post links to where you got the parts/lines to make them custom-length yourself?

    Nice work!
  17. CodyY

    CodyY ADVenture Capitalist

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  18. DeeGee

    DeeGee I'm a Yorkshireman thanoz

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    Eyup Pyn

    I just picked up my new ride and it's got the high fender on and the big fookin loop of brake line in the cockpit looks pants, any chance you could make me one of those tube things? I'll get you a few pints of tetleys for your troubles :wink:

    By doing the mod you've done does this mean you don't have to piss about with the lines when you put the stock mud guard on?

    Cheers

    Gav
  19. Pyndon

    Pyndon Long timer

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    :thumb

    PM'd you about the part.
  20. Peanuts

    Peanuts Long timer

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    Thats really neat. The top hose is static so never moves when suspension compresses, can be routed much tighter than stock.

    Do you have a record of hose lengths you used? If so, could you share? :)