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Discussion in 'Australia' started by overlandr, May 10, 2006.
Good idea. Could buy countersunk bolts, drill through the heads until they come off the shank.
Absolutely - as long as you drill relatively central and square to the face.
Grade 4.6 - 8.8 ZP Bolts or Stainless bolts will be easier to drill than HT cap screws.
Drill the holes 1mm larger in diameter than the screw - double-check the CS washer doesn't pertrude past the disc mounting surface - nothing a tickle with a file/ linisher/grinder won't fix.
The new disc does indeed come with a spot to fit a magnet, but as noted above by wyra1 the Adventure sensor seems to use all 6 bolts rather than a single magnet. The magnet hole is not even in the correct orbit for the Adventure sensor, and it should be getting 6 triggers per rotation if I'm correct in my reasoning.
I did toy with the idea of cutting a hex key into short segments and gluing them in.
If the 640 speedo pick up sensor is the same as the 690 and Super Enduro (which has a very similar speedo )it is a Hall Sensor , so adding a magnet will screw up the speedo accuracy as the Hall sensor picks up the magnetic field created by the rotating disc bolts . Unless , like @UncleGra has done , you place the magnets well outside the same rotational plane as the std bolts . I don't think the bolts have to be magnetized either , I checked mine on my 690 and they don't appear to be . Try putting on countersunk bolts and see if the speedo works , just for shits and giggles .
I have been through all this with my 690 when I fitted up an ICO Rally speedo/tripmeter unit , my issue was different (speed read incorrect on std speedo) but the lessons learned all apply . There is several posts from a thread in Racing about this . See the link .
The 701 sensor aligns with the bolts on the ABS plate...as far as I can tell..there's no magnet there.
I've placed the ICO sensor and magnet on a wider orbit as per the pic..but maybe it could be interfering with the bike speedo sensor being that close.
I hadn't checked the bike speedo for accuracy before fitting the ICO Sensor and magnet.
The ICO and bike speedo miss match by 8kmh at 100kmh.
I've tried adjusting the wheel circumference to compensate in the ICO, but nothing changed.
In my case the ICO and roadbook are permanently mounted and the ICO speedo / Trip meter is accurate..Its also much easier to see ánd read, being more towards eye level..I can barely read the bike speedo in most daylight conditions.
I checked my readings against Keeef's reliable DR.
Yep, it's a hall sensor OFB, so it requires 6 triggers per rotation to make the instruments function correctly. If only I could find 10.9 steel hex-head 6mm countersunk 20mm threadlength bolts......
I just read that link OFB, interesting stuff. I noticed the photos of the disc it looks similar to mine but yours took the standard bolts again, so it must have those shallow flat recesses like the stock one eh. The one I got takes countersunk bolts, sadly. Where'd you get that one from btw?
And ideas wheee to get some? I have looked, no luck so far. I got one set but they had the wrong taper. They have to be thin as the aftermarket disc is already thicker than stock at both the braking surface and the mounting surface. I have one on another wheel that has an issue with the bolt heads just almost contacting the sensor as they pass, so close that if I stop with the bolt under the sensor, the speedo reads a constant 30-ish km/hr dtsnding still!
Like their wheel bolt?
This is the only place I’ve found that makes an M6. But I don’t think they’d make an order of 6 for me...
I'd buy a minimum order 'cos they are probably dirt cheap, but they need to be tensile rated too (just to be difficult...). I just left a query with them on that matter. That's a good find eh, thanks for that.
Wouldn't it be easier to buy the proper disc and use the original bolts?
My last disc only cost $150. S3 Performance or metalgear.com.au (bit more here).
Might know a bloke
Yes, it would be easier. I bought this disc ($105 delivered) and my particular model wasn't listed as cpmpatible, but another model that takes the same disc as mine was listed as compatible, so I took a punt. It hasn't paid off unfortunately, old mate Sum Cunt doesn't seem too concerned with actual details when advertising it would seem.
So, I have a brand-new disc that requires an odd bolt, hard to source if they even exist. wyra1 has found the right shape, but I have a query with the manufsacturer regarding tensile ratings.
I'm wondering where Unc got his from, 'cos it looks pretty much identical to mine except for the bolt-holes eh. I'd buy another for $100 if I knew where to get them.
Fellow 640 owners I am looking for your advice and opinions.
My beloved 640 is approaching 80000 klms. I possibly have the opportunity to do a trip Bne- Finke-CSR-perth. The CSR is a trip that I ave long wanted to do. I love the 640 and will never sell it, but as much as I hate to say it, I'm not sure it would be up for a trip like this. It has always been well maintained, regularly serviced etc, but it is starting to show its age. It had a top end rebuild at around 60000klms. Also did rocker bearings water pump etc It recently had the reg rectifier replaced.
It is well set up for a trip like this and I love riding it. What do you guys think? Am I being overly pessimistic? What would you do before you left if it were you? I hate having bike issues on a big ride especially one as remote as this.
The other guys on the trip will all be riding DRs. Would kinda make sense to all be on the same bikes. Should I just buy a DR and give it to my misses afterwards?
Or do I do a complete rebuild on the 640?
Other option is to perhaps buy an AJP.
Im torn. what would you do?
Put fresh tires on it and ride the bloody thing! If the chain/sprockets are over about 20,000K, replace them also.
You did the rocker bearings/water pump 20K ago, so those common wear items should be good.
I would leave the rest of the motor alone unless it's using oil.
Also check all your suspension linkage and replace bearings as necessary.
Wheels might need bearings/seals also.
Gunner has done over 120K on his bike and it's still going strong!
But I would not get a DR, as I have ridden one and was not impressed!
Just ride it I wouldn't hesitate if it's been maintained and has all the usual things attended to, as you say. Mine is over 60,000km and I don't consider it in the least bit 'old' or unreliable. I say 'old' in quotes because it predates all the electro-gimmickry on my 1190, but it's not frail.
@clintnz probably had more than 80,000 km on his bike during his last Aussie foray, his last big rebuild was at 95,000 and he's up to 130,000 km or something now. I'm sure he'll be along soon...
Wot they sed.
Mine has over 100,000 on it. Took it down the CSR when it had about 90,000. Pulled the whole motor down at about 80,000 and found very little wrong with it. Broken top ring and it was about to do something nasty at the top of the piston, replaced the two inlet valves as they were scalloped and all else was good. I did ALL bearings and seals while I was there but it didn't really need them. The bike was running fine when I pulled it apart. I think the top ring and valve damage might have come from the fact that these bikes have small filters and on a high mileage dusty ride I may have left my filter maintenance too long between drinks. I now carry a spare clean filter for long trips. I have ridden a DR and while simple and strong they aren't like these old girls. Before I went down the CSR it was, new chain and sprockets, new wheel bearings, new sprocket bearing, new brake pads, new tyres and tubes and a full service of every thing you can think of. If you are carrying a load (as you need to on this type of ride) make sure you get some triangulation at the rear with your racks, it takes some of the pressure of the rear frame as these have a habit of breaking with big loads.
My 2 bobs worth.
Enjoy, it is a great but tough ride.
Stock KTM part . So everything works as designed with it .
Yep, what they said. I rocked off across Oz with 70K on my bike, had only ever been in the motor once to do the water pump & cam bearings. With only 20K km on all the key engine maintenance items, your motor should be good to go. Maybe give the carb a birthday if it hasn't had one yet. Brace the subframe if you haven't already. Replace the spring in the starter clutch. Check the wiring isn't rubbing anywhere, especially where it goes into the CDI box.
I reckon having a well maintained bike you know inside out is more of an asset on a trip than having something new & different, especially if you're comparing with a DR which is a step backwards in every way apart from a perception of better reliability.
Yeah thanks Gents
I think I will give it some love and go. Im pretty sure most of the issues have been addresses. Subframe starter Carby etc all done. Will go over the wiring again before I go. Steering head bearings done not long afgo. Wheel bearing willbe replaced with new tyres before I go. What else. Its electrical stuff that bothers me most. Battery is resonably new.
Will prolly carry a spare rec reg.