Oz / Kiwi Suzuki DR650 Adv Riders Sign in Here please

Discussion in 'Australia' started by davorallyfan, Feb 20, 2007.

  1. Lupine128

    Lupine128 That's MR Band Aid!

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    Make sure your idle is up around 1500rpm.
    Side stand usually causes problems with vertical movement like jumping down gutters and the like.
    Pretty common cause of stalling out is float level. But if you haven't noticed a deterioration I'd start with idle then check for crap in the bowl.
    DIRT SQUIRTER likes this.
  2. Precis

    Precis Maladroit malcontent

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    Sidestand won’t be flopping about at 3800km. I doubt anything needs adjusting at such low mileage either. I'd go with water in fuel, blocked tank vent.
  3. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

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    Repetition of these questions is indicative of new players to the sport...Love it ! Bring it on !
    ER70S-2, Precis and Nogoodnamesleft like this.
  4. Nogoodnamesleft

    Nogoodnamesleft Long timer

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    Choke stuck on a little.?
    Mine stuck a little after fitting barkbusters and needed a tweak for spacing.

    You mention u turn. Throttle cables bit snug and binding perhaps and full turns.?
    Precis likes this.
  5. DIRT SQUIRTER

    DIRT SQUIRTER Bitumen is just a way of getting there!

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    Thanks for the input guys.

    I'm thinking float level/fuel slosh, or water maybe (seems a bit unlikely)? Had not thought of the breather as an issue (Acerbis tank) I will check all mentioned.. process of elimination.. effing dangerous and does seem fuelish rather than an electrical cutout.

    Only started to notice when pushing the grip limits, straight line stops etc.

    Not looking at doing the BST magic just yet, and have found the stock off idle lean ping, now things are run in... I'll let sleeping dogs lay on that one for a while :-)
    leighwgold likes this.
  6. Nogoodnamesleft

    Nogoodnamesleft Long timer

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    Only other time i've had something remotely like that was a sidestand switch covered in baked mud.
    First time it happened i thought it was low fuel, but i new i had plenty of fuel.

    The sidestand should have 2 springs to hold its tension, an inner and outer and the switch has 2 screws to hold it in place, maybe a combo of the above being off when hard stopping or emergency braking, causing the switch to work.

    You could always disconnect the sidestand to rule it out regardless of the switch, position and spring tension.

    Think some people had trouble with the locking acerbis cap, and some have had tank bags over the cap causing vent problems.
    leighwgold likes this.
  7. DIRT SQUIRTER

    DIRT SQUIRTER Bitumen is just a way of getting there!

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    Update:
    Had some time to fool with it. Did the side stand bypass and backed off the choke cable, drained float bowl - no difference on a stoppy (rear wheel off the ground) it dies slowly, non locking ACERBIS cap and can blow through the vent tube/cap it alright.
    It gets pretty waffly on a tight stop, and smells rich; so next a carb float level check after checking the specs....
    Could be a warranty job... that will be fun.. not.
  8. Nogoodnamesleft

    Nogoodnamesleft Long timer

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    could check the mixture, but if you have a warranty..., maybe it's time to use it but you're right, it does open a different can of worms.
    my starter was in 3 times to be fixed. i told them what it needed, they went a different way..
    my CSS weeped, i told them it was that, not the gear lever shaft seal they diagnosed.
    it was the CSS..
    i'll give it to them, they never baulked at doing the warranty stuff i asked for.
    my bike is out of warranty and over 30,000 now, so all mistakes are mine from here on..:lol3:lol3
    DIRT SQUIRTER likes this.
  9. Big Willy

    Big Willy Gen. Italia

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    I note that you have an aftermarket tank. Could it be that the inlet pipe to you carby needs spinning 90 degrees to the 9 O'clock possy?

    Also smelling rich may be a symptom of the motor sucking in fuel but not burning it i.e. an ignition problem rather than fueling (although unlikely).
  10. sh4kes

    sh4kes Been here awhile

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    I had a case like that a long time ago....cant remember exactly what it was but it was something along the lines of the throttle or choke cables....when I braked hard the fork compression (or maybe front brake hose?) pulled one tight and it died...
  11. rutsthematter

    rutsthematter Been here awhile

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    Once a seat mount rubber come off and stuck in the snorkel opening
  12. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

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    Mine was choke cable or plunger. When I would get home and turn the handlebars to the left, before shutting it down, but in preparation to lock the steering, the engine would die. Couldn't get the cable adjusted properly so pissed it off.
  13. Precis

    Precis Maladroit malcontent

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    Hey, is that POS miniature standard fuel filter maybe blocked?
  14. Lupine128

    Lupine128 That's MR Band Aid!

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    I had one in the shop yesterday that was stalling out when hot. Turned out to be the traditional partially seized choke cable. Pressure lubed the cable and cleaned the plunger and it's all good now. Had to replace the plugs because they were completely black but it rides well now.
    One of the other mechanics (who isn't lucky enough to own a DR) was prepping for a full carby strip and clean on it when I heard what was happening.
    Precis likes this.
  15. DIRT SQUIRTER

    DIRT SQUIRTER Bitumen is just a way of getting there!

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    Its at 9 position.

    Flows well on the bowl drain.

    I put some plastic tube in a u shape off the bowl drain.... I reckon float level is too high @ 10mm down off bowl top face, and some times it went as high as the inlet tube centre line!!??.. I will book it in next week they can fix it, they "caused" a few oil leaks on 1st service as well. I'll give them the heads up and a serve about over tightening everything they touched as well :dirtdog :beer
    Thanks again, DS
  16. TheDecepticon

    TheDecepticon Wannabe

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    Some times the "o"rings in the float bowl that hold the float assembly in can leak, causing it to run rich. Shouldn't be that on a new-ish bike, still worth a check.
    leighwgold likes this.
  17. 0405canvet

    0405canvet Long timer

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    Turn your mixture in a quarter, also maybe try dropping your needle one clip. Hot - leaner, cold - richer.??
    leighwgold likes this.
  18. gavo

    gavo Slacker

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    2006 model dr running lithium battery last 3 years decided it wouldn't start yesterday at the shops sounded like flat battery but eventually started. This morning wouldn't start but jump started fine. Multi meter shows it's putting out 11.53 volts, not enough. funny thing is it acted up like this 3 weeks ago then was alright.
    Any suggestions? I'm thinking rectifier but maybe someone else has an idea.
  19. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    Should be getting 14 + volts for effective charging of a lithium battery. Check all connections, maybe clean them etc, before replacing things.
  20. Big Willy

    Big Willy Gen. Italia

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    If you would like to rectify 'er...

    Jump start with the lithium battery and see what volts you're getting when it's revving and whether they build...then...

    I would disconnect the lithium battery altogether, and then put jumper leads to any other known good battery, be it car or whatever and see what volts you are getting with the motor running via the multimeter and whether they build when you rev it...

    Then we can deduce whether it is charging or whether your lithium battery is shorting inside or just plain worn out.

    I personally suspect the battery...
    badmanners and gavo like this.