Putin,Kim Jong-un,& Genghis Khan Walk into a Biker Bar.. 1Day2Day European Marathon 2017 Run begins.

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by ExodusRider, Jun 24, 2017.

  1. Ratman

    Ratman Lucky Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,311
    Location:
    Baja is good
    I

    Sure it's easy to check. Just hold it up and look down the shaft, prolly can see most bends. Or hold a straight edge up to it....even a carpenter's square.
  2. Blackhawk6d

    Blackhawk6d Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2016
    Oddometer:
    18
    Location:
    Western Washington
    I just found this thread and I got absolutely NOTHING accomplished today, other than reading it. WOW!!!! This has got to be the most epic and awesome RR ever! And the adventure is incredible! Thank you so much for sharing and inspiring!
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  3. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2015
    Oddometer:
    492
    Location:
    Houston, Texas
    Heaven and Hell.
    We leave Yerevan Sunday morning to visit Gerhard. The plan was visit the church then head south Armenia to the Iran border..

    First, some fun pics in and above Yerevan.
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    My buddy Hovanni at the hotel helped me sort out things around the city
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    Nice view on the way up the mountain.
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    Gerhard monastery is a world heritage site, had anticipated it being busy and large..

    The church itself didn't seem big from the outside but it truly was heavenly where it was built and holy shite kewl on the inside ..

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    I asked the sweet ladies outside to watch my bike, they were cut throat, saying only if we bought something ... Fine.. sweetbread and fruit roll ups please !!

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    Time to give thanks .
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    This candle is for Lala's granmama
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    Moses, my son!!! go to my people... Lead them into the adv promise Land .
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    Yes, my Lord, I see the light ..

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    Throwing stones into holes in the wall for good luck ..
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    But Hell will follow..
    Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk
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  4. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2015
    Oddometer:
    492
    Location:
    Houston, Texas
    Following the Sun into the Valley of Hell.

    Onwards to Iran but MapsMe takes me on an off-road shortcut that leads us over the edge , but was so beautiful the drop off, pasture , and valley.
    We decide to try and find our way down and camp by the river.

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    While trying to find the gravel road that would lead us down into the valley, I hit a muddy rut and dump the bike with Lala on it; she falls like a pro , and survives the first fall with slight muddy pants.. way to go girl!! ( More soon from GoPro).

    So we stop at the end of one edge and meet Ike & Maria. Get invited in for tea and delisious bean soup. I'm not a fan of beans but this was surely yummy.
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    They live on top of the mountain plateau surrounded by their orchards and wine vineyard, so scenic ..

    They invited us to stay over but I was determined to make it down the valley, boy was that a mixed blessing when we got down there.
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  5. NZRalphy

    NZRalphy Long timer

    Joined:
    May 14, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,035
    Location:
    Wairarapa, Wellington, NZ
    Take your axle out and roll it along a table. You'll see the wobble.

    Lucky man with a nice RR
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  6. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2015
    Oddometer:
    492
    Location:
    Houston, Texas
    The culprit bearing issue has been located I believe. Thanks for valuable feedback guys. The axle and sprocket look to be straight and in order. The left side of the hub seems to be the issue. The bearing seems to drop into the hole pretty snugly by hand and you can actually pull the bearing w/out too much straining. So either the SKF 6025 bearing is too small or the hub tolerance is too great that it's not binding properly. I'm pretty certain there's just too much play on the left side that the bearing is being rocked back/forth even if it's a minute play. I'm told it's suppose to take alot of pressure / effort to install and take out. To the point, that you're suppose to even put bearings in the fridge and heat up the hub so that once installed, they expand/shrink back into a very tight hold?..

    Looks like I will have to replace the hub when I get back home or perhaps find a metal ring washer I can install into the left hub temporarily to help make it tighter.. thoughts?
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  7. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2015
    Oddometer:
    492
    Location:
    Houston, Texas
    Hell Freezes Over:

    A few more pictures of the Gerhard church from goPro Cam.

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    After Lala’s first bike dump,
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    meeting Mariela / Ike for a fabulous lunch/tea and touring their magnificent piece of heaven on earth,

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    In ground oven where they bake the bread..
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    we find the route down to the valley. It’s a splendid ride down ( for advrider ).

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    The decent is way steep, Lauren decides to walk down instead of riding. Don’t blame her, it was kind of scary for me as well, but her nerves were shot from the first fall. Truth be told, it was easier on me descending solo w/ out the back thought having both of us going over the edge.

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    We explore the beautiful lush surroundings and find the perfect campsite by the river. There were fish camps and private picnic type setups every 100 yards, we just picked one and made camp.

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    It got dark really fast @ 7:00pm. Did my best to start up a fire w/ but all the wood lying around was damp, didn’t have any gas in the cans to light up. I only had a 1-man tent, thin sleeping pad, cot, and 30dg sleeping bag.

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    Of course, in my mind I had the romantic idea of sleeping out in the wild ever since I passed the valley. We had been holed up in that family hotel, spoiling ourselves rotten.

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    I set up the tent, put the cot, pad, and bag into it for Lala, then setup a hammock against a tree, doubled up on the clothing, and used the rain cover of the tent as a blanket and went to bed.


    We didn’t have a fire but tried to sleep around 8:00pm. That must have been one of the longest night of my life. Watching the sky, stars, waiting for Mr. Sandman. It was SOOOO freaking cold, my toes were throbbing about to fall off. But “manly” me kept saying it’ll get warmer or that I’ll fall asleep soon. At 10:30pm, it dips down to sub30s… ack!!!


    I make Lauren scoot over so I can lay in the tent as well, head to toe configuration. Dam that was a tight tent, even for two skinny ass Asian people. We tried to sleep on our sides but after 2 hours of trying, I got back up and wentback outside to lay on the bench by the tree.

    She finally falls asleep but I feel so guilty making her camp out in the cold weather. Worrying if she was warm enough or not, I put the rain cover back on the tent. Luckily, it creates a little covered area outside the tent for me.

    I light up the portable stove and leave the cover vented at the bottom, hoping to get a hot air balloon warming affect under the rain cover and in the tent. I sleep under the cover, legs sticking out like the wicked witch of the west w/ the house on her.


    Half frozen, half worried about carbon monoxide poisoning, and the rest just plain exhausted, finally fall asleep around 4:00 am. Got up at 6:30am, it’s surprising warmer so either the stove trick worked or my body just got acclimated.

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    But now I can’t sleep anymore, get up to do some GoPro time lapses, walked around abit, found some dry wood and finally got a warm fire going. Sat and watched the sun rise magnificently above the two mountains. Having the sun light up the valley and warmly waking up all living things made me forget how awful the night before was.. Yeah right!!! I ain’t trying that shit ever again…


    Walking further down quarter mile to explore and met the neighbor’s dog, Tbilisi. She was so happy to have a visit that she pretty much followed me back to camp and spent the morning with us.

    La la gets up around 8:30, we go walking Tbilisi and bring her back home. There, Rita and Ashalf greets us with tea and fruits for breakfast. What another amazing spread. Everyone seems to have their own orchard, pond for fish, etc. This couple live right at the base of the mountain and the view above is spectacular.
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    We spend a nice morning with them and finally head back up into town in time for lunch at a local café.


    The ride up is equally scary and beautiful, but this time, Lala rides up..
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    Forgive slew of pics , just so breathtaking ..


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    Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk
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  8. davesupreme

    davesupreme grand poobah

    Joined:
    May 1, 2011
    Oddometer:
    5,200
    Location:
    palm harbor, fla
    there's a loctite bearing mount product, supposed to take up some space..... i used it on a Warp9 cush hub on my KTM that was way too loose tolerance.... goop it up w/loctite before you install..... any is prolly better than nothing..... use superglue in a pinch.... if you're using SKF bearings, i doubt the bearing is outta spec..... even chinois bearings should be pretty good spec, just bad metal.....
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  9. Bt10

    Bt10 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2012
    Oddometer:
    280
    Location:
    Saranac,MI
    "Green" loctite. Available for .005" and .02" gap fill capability.

    Edit to add: If you’re replacing the hub, don’t be afraid to put a few dingers in the bore to help hold the bearing in.
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  10. NZRalphy

    NZRalphy Long timer

    Joined:
    May 14, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,035
    Location:
    Wairarapa, Wellington, NZ
    Engineer speaking here....... Don't be daft - you don't need a new hub.

    Loctite Green bearing fit - it will be as if it was new and you will never have a problem. It seals huge gaps and breaks down at approx 100-120C (just above boiling water) so a heat gun will release it.
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  11. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2015
    Oddometer:
    492
    Location:
    Houston, Texas
    Bearing again?Tuesday-Nov 14th

    As we climb out of the Gerhard valley, the dreaded familiar slip/slide feeling in the rear came back. New bearings were replaced in Moscow about a month/5000miles ago. Luckily was only 20 miles from Yerevan capital city, so found a motorbike shop (Motorbike Armenia) at 5:00pm.

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    Was given directions to bearing shop nearby. Picked up new bearings in the morning, back at the motorbike shop by noon. Motorbike shop owned by father and 3 sons. They fixed my issue, back on the road by 1:30pm. Thanks Sean, Renee and family for the help. Replaced 3 rear bearings, $20.00 / labor, right on! The left bearing outer racer was cracked, looking ugly, ya! Per previous blog, was loose left bearing fitting. So will try the Loctite solution when I get a chance.

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    The goal was to see the Trchkhan Waterfall, 90 miles northwest away before dark then check into motel by the Armenia/Georgian border. We leave Yerevan at 2:00pm and get into the Trchkhan valley around 5:30pm.

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    Somewhere in route, I get pulled over by the police for speeding and going around a car / crossing the solid line in non-passing zone. He proceeds to show me the fine list: $37.50 USD. I tell him I was avoiding the car in front who made a sudden stop (like so many cars do w/out signaling, etc). He says to me “No matter, but how much do you want to pay then?”


    “I have just enough cash for fuel to the Georgian border, sir; because most gas stations don’t take credit card, I need that cash. However, if you take a credit card, I can pay the fine now or you can take me to an ATM machine?”


    We play the stare down / chicken game until one of us caves. 5 minutes later after repeating “how much do you want to pay”, he says “okay, I won’t fine you this time, but watch your speed and no illegal lane changes!” Sure thing officer as I walk away (but what I was really saying under my breath?? “WORKS EVERY TIME”..LOL


    The valley into Trchkhan is beautiful; however, required more off-road riding which normally would be okay, but abit weary about the rear bearing issue.
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    I am unable to find the waterfall before 6:30pm and it’s now getting dark and chilly. Because it’s 10 miles off road into the valley, there’s no hotel / café around, just a few small remote villages.


    We see two guys seating on the fence hanging out. We asked about hotel/café around, we all laughed. I motioned how cold it was and he asked how about some tea.

    He invites us into the house, where mom / papa and grandma welcomes in with big smiles. We sit by the stove while the tea is prepared.

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    Momma was in the process of making dinner so hell yeah, perfect timing. We sit, have an amazing dinner with them and naturally, they asked if we would like to stay over.
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    Hmm, let’s see, a repeat of Hell Freezes Over or a nice warm stove / couch? SOLD.
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    Plus, grandmother is soooo nice
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    I sleep on the nice comfortable couch and LaLa sleeps with grandma, classic!

    The parents and two brothers (Shasum and Roman) all speak Russians, which worked out b/c my Russian (and google translator) works better than the Armenian language.


    In the morning, papa and Roman was supposed to go to Yerevan to sell crops but the car wouldn’t start. I helped Shasum push start the car. The air was thin at 7000 feet, I couldn’t catch my breath but finally get the car going after push it down the 3rd hill.
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    He takes me the intersection where I needed to go to find the waterfall before heading back to the house. We have a nice breakfast, father/son goes into capital and we head off to the waterfall for the day.

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    A nice scenic challenging 7 miles off-road, we finally find the waterfall and spend a few hours having lunch by it. A few times, I had to be the good uncle and carry Lala cross the creek to get closer to the waterfall. Which ultimately was for not because on the way back, I drop the bike in a deep water crossing and we both fall into the water. LMAO.
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    When we get back around 3:30pm, mom does our laundry, we take quick shower, have a nice late lunch, thank mom, grandma, and Shasum for inviting into such a loving family. I give Shasum my fancy pocket blade he was eyeing and say our goodbyes. The idea was to make it to Batumi by the following day, rest the weekend, see the city before ferrying Monday to Burgas. We get to the Armenia/Georgia border at 7:00pm and at certain spots, it has gotten down to 31 degrees so extremely cold. Luckily we find a great hotel in Akhalkalaki, an hour after getting back into Georgia. By 9:00, we were settled in w/ nice shawarma dinner.
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    Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk
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  12. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2015
    Oddometer:
    492
    Location:
    Houston, Texas
    King for another Day:
    Thursday, Nov 16th

    Up to this point, we had learned most of the ferries were only going to Ukraine, not Bulgaria (scheduled were published on their websites). The night before we confirmed / managed to find a ferry from Batumi, Geo to Burgas, Bulgaria on Monday 20th mid-day via PBM ferries. Motorbike w/ 2 passenger / cabin / meals for close to $500 USD ($450 plus a $50 winter surcharge.. ack!).


    Which means we could sleep in a bit considering the day before we rode pretty hard/late into the night and had all weekend to see Batumi before debarking. Unfortunately, this also meant we would be at sea on Thanksgiving day and I wasn’t too thrilled about that fact for Lala’s sake.

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    The ride from Akhalkalaki, Georgia toward Batumi actually followed much of the Silk Road Corridor so the Georgian valleys along the way was simply incredible. Had to make a few detours to ride through them. We also came across a large castle ruins on top of a mountain side; can’t pass that up, naturally.

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    The scenic silk road continues on to the next city where a large Christian castle / monastery had been converted into the hotel. shopping villa, full of shops, etc. Judging from the immense size, definitely a tourist trap @ $75 to get in to the main walls.
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    We stayed in the surrounding grounds but even that was enough beauty to satisfy our curiosity as we explored the turrets and hidden passage ways.


    Around 2:45pm, I get an email that there WAS indeed a ferry vessel from another company leaving for Varna, Bulgaria on Friday mid-day (tomorrow in Poti, 50 miles from Batumi. We decided then let’s try to make that ferry and be in Athens, Greece for Thanksgiving (the original intended timeframe).


    At the 2nd castle, our map read 100 miles to Batumi or 150 miles to Poti so no worries, let’s have a nice early dinner than make our way to Batumi for the night. Overly confident as always, I figured we would be in Batumi by 8:00-8:30pm before it gets too dark/cold.
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    Boy, what an adventure that turned out to be. After a nice lamb dinner, we ride@ 5:15pm into another beautiful valley following the ebbs of the flowing river for another 30 miles. [​IMG]
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    Now it gets dark, pavement ends, and we start climbing a mountain pass straight out of “Lord of the Rings”.. on gravel/dirt roads w/ rock crops, potholes, water run-off, sand/mud, and crazy switchbacks for 40 miles. I was scared for Lala but had to keep calm to let her know her TIO was in charge..

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    Twice near the top, I would turn the bike off, the surrounding would be pitch black except the light from the stars/moon shining down. Told Lala for a minute to take it all in, the fact we were on top of a scary mountain at night, in the middle of nowhere, halfway around the world in a foreign land. How strange, yet excitedly bucketlistuous (look it up) this all was.. she hollers in approval, “F!@# Yeah IT IS!!, now get me the HELL out of here!!”

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    “LOL, right on, girlie..” Lauren was definitely frighten since some spots had drop-offs to the abyss. I tried to stay close to the mountain side as much as possible. It was quite the adrenaline rush for me but poor LaLa could barely look.

    In retrospect, it’s selfish but I’m glad she was with me, I would have been scared being out there in the mountainous forest alone, it’s dam creepy!! It would take us another 2.5 hours to make it to very top of pass, over where lights and villages started to show up again.


    We pull over for tea and warm up abit in a café on the downside of the mountain. I get to meet a darling little girl w/ her dad as he gives me directions and info.
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    Was told it would take another 2hours to get to Batumi. We were only another 35 miles but I was dreading the next 20 miles of decent in the dark but as it turns out, that side of the mountain was paved switchbacks, though badly broken and muddy at parts, it was still pavement so we were able to ride abit faster and smoother.


    It would be a very nice and scenic ride too if during the day. I felt abit disappointed that we rushed through this section at night to make the ferry. I suspect it was a glorious view by day. Oh well, there’s always a next time for Georgia!


    We finally make it into Batumi at 11:00pm. Found a nice hotel w/ really great guys running it. Hotel Dailis Sunset $20/night w/ breakfast. I woke up middle of night w/ throbbing wrists b/c the ride 2up over the pass was that hard on my arms. Still, what a great adventure that was!!


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  13. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2015
    Oddometer:
    492
    Location:
    Houston, Texas
    Arggh, Time to walk the plank, Mate!
    Friday Morning:

    We get up early Friday (Nov 17th) @ 8:30am, shower, pack, and breakfast by 9 so we can make our way north to Poti port city which took 2 hours instead of the estimated 1 hr. The 51 mile coastal ride included 20 miles of switchbacks up/down the mountain, tailing a few semis along the way.

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    Once we got to the terminal at 11:30, it took about 30 minutes to find out where we needed to go (ARM ferry Terminal). The Odessa cargo ship (Bulgarian Vessel of the Navibular Company) didn’t leave til 3:00pm so we could have stopped by the grocery store to picked up some food, snacks, etc.
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    Only, we didn’t know all the details of exactly when it would leave until we checked into the terminal point, passed security, etc. At which point, was too much of a hassle to leave.

    The agent in the morning sounded abit worried when I called at 9:45, telling him I was in Batumi instead of Poti. That made me nervous of missing the boat. We pretty much B-lined to the terminal, not lingering anywhere..

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    It would cost us $353 USD for the motorbike w/ 2 passengers (including a cabin w/2 beds, 3 square meals a day for 3 days of sailing, Friday mid-day through Sunday afternoon. It’s definitely not the LOVEBOAT, and older than the first ferry we were planning on taking.

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    It’s a Cargo ship, so my expectation wasn’t too high to begin with. Lala shrieked at the bathroom but I thought the cabins and restroom wasn’t bad for what this was.
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    When you get accustomed to ADV motorbike travel lifestyle, there’s a philosophy that gets ingrained into your psyche: “It can always be better, but it can ALSO be way worse!” I just viewed it as a low budget cruise, rest time, plus I get to bring my steed along.. so “win/win” ??
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    We pass custom / checkpoint and I ride Amelia onto the dock toward the ferry. The loading road is a matrix of railroad tracks and woodblocks; I had to walk it first checking on the path and cross points.

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    There was hardly any room for the bike to park since there was 2 semi-trucks and 1 container of explosives on board. I think the boat can hold 2000 containers and 100 trucks. Oh where oh where should I park my big bike!!
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    Vessel was christened 1978, not the most updated /advance ship, LOL. What really made this trip cool though was that the ride back from Georgia to Bulgaria is normally pretty sparse w/ passengers and cargo. Most of the time, people are traveling and moving merchandise from Europe back to Georgia, not necessarily the other way around. Instead of dealing with 20-30 truckers gawking at LaLa and causing a general raucous, we had the crew (mainly Bulgarians) and two Dutchmen truck drivers.

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    The crew pretty much stayed on the level below except the attendant that was providing meals and support for us. Bert and Lex, the two Dutchmen were super nice and friendly. It wasn’t their first rodeo so they had brought beers, snacks, movies along which they kindly shared with us. It was essentially a ghost ship w/ 4 passengers and the cook most of the time.


    Incidentally, I could have shot the cook on numerous occasions for trying to pass some of his dishes along as meals. It was like a new love relationship on fast forward, the first day was wonderful; awesome breakfast, lunch and dinner.
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    2nd day the food was a 10 year relationship where breakfast was cold cut salami plus a hard boil egg and dinner was a few pieces of chicken on a stick and bread. Funny how long term relationships can resemble PRISON!!,

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    by the 3rd day of this 20 year relationship, he was trying to poison us with small dosage of anti-freeze and arsenic seasoning… ahhh, TRU LOVE.. can’t beat it..
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    We get our 50 megs daily rations of WiFi and pretty much the entire passenger level (kitchen, TV/ game room, our own cabin/bathroom) to ourselves. All in all, it was a very restful 3-day slow moving / easy crossing.
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    Unlike the American counterpart, we were able to access / tour a lot of the normally restricted areas of the ship to explore and stretch/walk such as the top level captain’s view.
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    I tell Lala, another “take it in” moment in your life. On an industrial cargo ship, crossing the historical Black Sea, on a motorbike trip along the Silk Road route, simply an amazing fact that most North Americans will never see and Marco Polo would have been jealous of.. She gets it…

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  14. marco polo

    marco polo Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2002
    Oddometer:
    1,132
    Location:
    Alexandria Virginia and Ottawa, Canada
    Stumbled upon this Ride Report a few days ago, and now I'm caught up (almost in real time). Moses, you have a real knack for story-telling, and a keen eye for adventure. Well done on all accounts. I've really enjoyed reading this, looking at all the photos, and especially your videos. Thank you for taking the time, and making the effort to do this. Best of luck on the remainder of your journey.
  15. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2015
    Oddometer:
    492
    Location:
    Houston, Texas
    Holy shite!! I make one reference of the Black Sea, Silk Road, MP and suddenly he appears !! Hmm...

    Uh.. Dancing with the Stars.. Julianne Hough ??

    Sport Illustrated.. Kate Upton ??

    Anyone anyone ??????


    You are most welcome, MP.. always glad to have new riders join the thread. I started blogging some for a few friends and now I'm so glad to be meeting so many riders and get so much encouragement.. rock on, brother !



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  16. Ratman

    Ratman Lucky Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,311
    Location:
    Baja is good
    ...another brilliant post, ExodusRider, Thanks. I really like (in an uncley way) your niece. She's a nice addition to your RR.

    You say,
    Is there no other good road way to make that ride, or were you just looking for the worst way possible to get tp Poti?
  17. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2015
    Oddometer:
    492
    Location:
    Houston, Texas
    Apparently, there was a 6 hour highway route / long way around but who wants to do that when you can scare yourself to death !!

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  18. NZRalphy

    NZRalphy Long timer

    Joined:
    May 14, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,035
    Location:
    Wairarapa, Wellington, NZ
    Oh i love problems - but not when you are on holiday! Your bearings should last way way longer. Hummmmm

    1. If the spacers are missing or crushed then there could be too much side-ways pressure on the balls. Are all the spacers fitted and in good order?
    2. If you hit a bearing in any direction with a hammer (etc) while fitting them the balls dent the bearing tracks and they are DOA even before you ride. Fit them by pushing the outer race. Are they installed with a hammer?
    3. If the swing arm is twisted then the bearings will be exposed to a side load. Is the swing are straight?
    4. If you are overtighten the axles then everything could be squished too far and put sideways load on the bearings.
    My money is on #2

    Ralphy
  19. NSFW

    NSFW basecamp4adv

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
    20,934
    Location:
    Burbank CA
    moses. hope all the bike issues get fixed. good call by NZRalphy.

    great report, including the one in armenia.

    good luck and looking forward to the next installment.

    same as you are, i'm in baja, away from the traditional Thanksgiving celebration. the truth is everyday when i get up, it's a thanksgiving day.
  20. ExodusRider

    ExodusRider ExodusRider

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2015
    Oddometer:
    492
    Location:
    Houston, Texas
    Indeed, Joel. Thanksgiving is everyday when one can take another healthy breath. We get so caught up in life and the rat race, we forget to stop and smell the fumes from THAT race.. it stinks!! ha ha..

    Hope & pray that everyone w/ their family is warm, safe, fed, happy, and definitely thankful this holiday. Greetings and Blessings to all this awesome day.

    Lala and I are in town center of Athens, Greece resting from a very long 3 days of riding from Bulgaria. Will update w/ photos and such once we get settled in. Thank you to Arkadios for setting us up in Greece. We're looking forward to the next few days of seeing the Greek lifestyle / family / hospitality.