So we've all heard/seen the 650 xchallenge...let's see your XCOUNTRY!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Olas, Dec 3, 2007.

  1. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

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    You NEED to do that. I've done it several times and it is not too bad. Getting the airbox etc out of the way is the most trouble.

    Special note: When removing the little breather hose from the plastic valve cover, be very careful. You can easily break the plastic nipple molded into the valve cover. Cut the clamp and use a screwdriver etc to push the hose away. Don't twist the hose on the nipple.

    I may have posted a pictorial on this procedure. (?)
  2. snooker

    snooker AttitudeIsEverything

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    I really need to check my valve clearances so if you have a specific procedure and pics/tips that would be great. And I'll link to it from my website. Thanks leafy.
  3. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

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    I'll look into what I have and post something over the weekend.
  4. c-m

    c-m Long timer

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    Did you find the indicators got in the way and that there is a massive gap between the bottom of the screen and the headlight?

    I cut the bottom rear corners off mine to allow me to get move it back a little closer to the indicators. This helps stop the terrible glare I was getting from the headlight.
  5. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    Mine is resting against the indicators and yes there's quite a gap and yes I had a glare from the light. I've put some black tape on the top side of the lense and everything is hanky dory ! Yes it looks shit but I'm no longer bothered by it and I'm out of the wind of sorts. I'm not too fussed how it looks as long as I can ride through the winter. Then it'll come off again.

    You can get a clear lense 6.5" light in there and it fills the gap in the screen better.
  6. Niedz

    Niedz Been here awhile

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    it looks really nice!
  7. pibyk

    pibyk Adventurer

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    Well, I can confirm what was already said - higher octane gas is not the problem - I run my bike on 95 as a standard, few times tried 98 and it was never an issue. My bike does not suffer much from "stalling" but it has actually happened to me few times. Only once it lasted something like an hour - I stopped for a longer while and when I started to ride I managed to travel few hundred meters and then it stopped and I could not start the engine. After fiddling with the bike for something like an hour I let it cool down, had a coffee and then it started like nothing has ever happened. From time to time (like once in a quarter) it tends to behave strangely - after a short while of riding the revs become uneven, sort of start going up and down and eventually the bike would stall usually when I stop at the traffic lights - now if I observe the beginning of such symptoms I just stop, let the bike cool down, talk to her nicely, if possible have a coffee or a quick smoke and after something like 10-15 minutes I can continue the ride with no further issues :D

    I could not find any logic to or identify any underlying causes of such symptoms although I get the feeling that they tend to appear more often in lower temperatures. I have the bike serviced regularly, got the valve clearances checked, the battery is fine so the only reason I could think of would be the fuel but not octanes but additives - in US and EU they add quite a bit of alcohol to the fuel in order to be more "green" and the stalling has never happened to me in countries which are not within EU and which do not care much about such "green" bullshit so "alcoholic" fuel may be the culprit. Try to look for E5 fuel which has the lowest alcohol content.
  8. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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  9. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool

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    There is a documented fix for the hot stalling issue. It involves replacing a piece on the cam and doesn't look to be terribly difficult to fix. Search ADV using google/bing to find it in one of the G650X threads.
  10. an13

    an13 Been here awhile

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  11. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

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  12. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

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    I have checked the valve clearances twice on my 2009 XCo twice but I did not do a series pictorial about it.

    With about 30,000 miles now, my valve clearances are still within specs and I have not needed to change any shims.

    Very good instructions for doing this are in the factory shop manual but I have a few notes to the official procedure.

    1. When removing the top painted cover, you may need to loosen the mount and shift forward the brakeline junction connector in front of the cover on ABS bikes to access the top cover bolts. Also, don't overlook the small black screw(s) that attaches the radiator plastic trim to the top.

    2. The special BMW screw used to lock the flywheel at TDC is not necessary when only checking the clearances. However, it can be helpful if you must remove a cam to change shims because it will lock everything in TDC to allow easier reassembly.

    [​IMG]

    TDC is achieved when the marks on the cam sprockets are horizontal to the head-
    [​IMG]

    3. Be very careful when removing the breather hose from the plastic valve cover. You can easily break the plastic hose nipple molded into the valve cover. Cut the stock clamp and try to push the hose off with the flat side of a screwdriver.

    Here you can see that hose with its replacement adjustable clamp (and repaired nipple!). You can also see the throttle cable that must be unhooked to gain clearance for removing the valve cover.
    [​IMG]

    4. I like to number my valve cover bolts to put everything back to original position, especially when re-using the rubber seals. Check the rubber bolt seals at the attachment points for the valve cover and replace any that are weeping.

    Valve cover bolt torque = 10 Nm


    [​IMG]

    5. Access to the clearance checkpoints is provided by openings in the cam mount structure. You have to bend the feeler gauge to slip it in the check points. Use the go/no-go method. Keep inserting increasing thicknesses until the last one will not go. The preceding gauge thickness is the clearance.

    Cold clearances:

    Intake 0.03...0.11 mm or 0.0012...0.0043 in

    Exhaust 0.25...0.33 mm or 0.010...0.013 in

    For more reading on precision valve adjustment see post 8380 here-
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=23348201&highlight=valve+clearances#post23348201


    [​IMG]


    6. If you need to change some shims, use the following video as a good guide to the process:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1mLPdSWCLM

    7. Before reinstalling the airbox, check the rubber seal that seals the airbox to top of the throttle body. Replace it if it is aged and not pliable. Be sure that this seal seats down fully on the throttle body with no exposed gap.


    .
  13. nophones

    nophones Adventurer

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    Good news here is that it seems replacing the torched aux spark plug and air filter seem to have done the trick. Both were way past due. Mine is 07 so am hoping the hot stall issue is not on the menu for me..
  14. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

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    No, the errant decompression lever should not afflict the 07 model.

    But, again, you should check those valve clearances.
  15. triggerfisher

    triggerfisher Adventurer

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    I'm "sorting" my XCountry and have a query that hopefully someone can help me with. I'm thinking of fitting the XRack to my bike. A previous owner fitted the XTank already. I have a Giant Loop Great Basin which I previously used on an X Challenge now sold. My question, will the Giant Loop still be compatible with the XRack?
    I put a little order in with basplates.de last evening. The Wunderlich and Touratech fairy has already visited prioir to Christmas:clap
    I also welcome tyre advice from anyone in the know, thinking Mitas E07 tyres for 50/50 trail and Tarmac roads. As it usually wet here in Ireland, the tyres will need to cope fairly well in mixed conditions
    Peter
  16. Erik RS

    Erik RS Three Wheel Maniac

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    Only know that bag system from pictures, so no clue. The top rack of the Xrack is 460 mm wide.
    Looking at the pictures I'd say they don't comply, but maybe this info helps
  17. triggerfisher

    triggerfisher Adventurer

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    Thank you Erik. I read a review that said the pillion seat could still be used on the XCountry with the xrack fitted. So hoped the GiantLoop May rest on the pillion seat and a Duffel bag on the rack. Thank you for the measurements of the rack I'll get a tape measure out and check the Great Basin. Fingers crossed
  18. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    Here's view of the X rack with the sides mounted so you can judge more or less what space you've got.

    [​IMG]
  19. triggerfisher

    triggerfisher Adventurer

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    Thanks Ard
    I think with a little encouragement it'll fit. I guess you use the Magadans.
  20. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    I wish I had them and a need for them at the moment...
    Used a big rolbag on top and strapped my tent and sleeping mat to the left side and my little yellow toolbox on the right.
    I've got the whole rack on it full time as the sides strengthen the rear frame no end which comes in handy if you drop it.