South American Adventure - 2 up on a R100GS

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Flyingavanti, Sep 1, 2005.

  1. mtbh2o

    mtbh2o El Dorado Hills, Ca.

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    How are you doing. This is Mike & Robin Brunelle. We met at the Sierra Ballarat Ride. Gald to hear you finally made it on the road. As we talked in Ballarat, I had hiked the Darien Jungle quite a few years ago and Robin and I both spent 6 weeks traveling through Equador, Peru and Boliva. Then last year I traveled to Torres del Paine and Ushuia. You will be blown away by the scenes you will see as you head south. Have a great trip. By the way, we missed you at the Sierra Mammoth Lakes ride last week.

    Mike & Robin
    #21
  2. Doug Matson

    Doug Matson Long timer

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    Looking forward to this and thanks for taking us along! How come you didn't do it on the 950? Like the website you set up for this also. Ride safe.
    #22
  3. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    It was a tough choice. A bike that is more fun to ride, but maybe a little less serviceable (valve adjustments and the like), or a very reliable and VW like engine. We plan on getting on and off the bike often, and that is a little easier on the BMW. And I bought the BMW for this trip, 13 years ago (isn´t that planning!?!?). We are also going to come home about every 6 months, for 4 to 6 weeks at a time, and the 950 will be fun to ride at home......
    #23
  4. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    September 3, 2005 and we are still in Quito, Ecuador waiting for the motorcycle.
    But we had success today locating our first photographic targets.

    Our first find was the Monastery at the San Francisco Church.
    This picture was scanned from a book printed in 1948 called "Fireside Travels in South America", written by James Fitzpatrick.
    Our copy of the book is signed by the author, making it quite a treasure to us.

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    This is how the Church appeared on September 3, 2005.

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    Not many changes, but the palm trees had grown, the paint is fresher and you can see, on the right of the screen, some restoration activity.



    We met a "Father" as we where walking the grounds who was puzzled as to why we were walking around with a computer and cameras. When we showed him what we were doing, he was very polite and interested. Then we showed him the old photographs which were taken from the steeple, and asked if we could have entry to the tower. He stated politely, "No, that is unlikely to happen". We then left the grounds to take other photos. Four hours later we returned to see if we could get shots similar to the pictures taken during the morning hours, but with better lighting. A friendly police officer approached us and was also interested in the computer. We showed him approximately 4 "Then and Now" photos which we had acquired during the day. He noticed the old pictures taken from the steeple. He asked if we would like entry to the locked towers. I had to choke up a "YES"! He stated he would return with the keys in a few minutes.



    Seated under the bells was the Spanish born Padre, Urtaza.
    This photograph was also scanned from "Fireside Travels", printed in 1948.
    Notice that there where no trees on the ridge in 1948.


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    Where the Padre's knees were located you can see the growth in the monastery (red brick building in the lower left).
    Just to the right of the ropes, located directly above the brick building you can see the white building with 6 windows, which still exist today.

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    The following old photograph was taken from almost the same location 6 years later. It was scanned from a book written by Sydney Clark called "All the Best of South Americas West Coast", printed in 1954.



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    Notice trees on ridge that did not exist in 1948.




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    Trees on ridge are now missing, but a palm tree is showing it's head from a church patio. Also, many more casas on hill side!



    Entrance to the tower was through this old and thick door.

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    Then up this staircase. I know, I got the picture on our egress.


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    #24
  5. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    Sandy, resting after the climb up the tower, near an old bell.

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    Close up of old bell.

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    The floors in the Monastery were beautiful!​
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    This was the next object for our hunt. This search was elusive and took hours. We showed the old photograph to many Ecuadorians, with little luck. ​
    This photograph was scanned from "Carpenter's World Travels, Familiar Talks About Countries and People".

    It was written by Frank Carpenter in 1926. This is a 20 volume book set almost like a set of encyclopedias).

    Frank took trains, steamers and walked the planet from 1917 to 1926, in order to write this set of books.

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    We were starting to believe that the Church no longer existed, then we met Joe. He was about 60 years old and about 4' 9" tall. That is Joe leading Sandy (black and red jacket). ​
    He walked us approximately a mile and a quarter.

    I was huffing and puffing (remember we are at 9,250 feet).

    Question: How many citizens in the U.S.A. would go out of their way to walk a stranger for a mile?

    Question: At 60 years old?

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    Very friendly Ecuadorians!
    Joe took at least 45 minutes out of his Saturday, to lead 2 strangers across town. He was proud of his country, and described every building which we strolled past.

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    #25
  6. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    The search was elusive, but with a reason. Sandy and I have walked at least 25 miles during the last 5 days attempting to locate the buildings in the old photos. We had walked by this church, which was under restoration, but never tried to figure out if it was one of the churches which we were looking for....... It was......

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    Then

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    Now

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    This church is one of 7 churches on "Calle de las Siete Cruces", each of which is marked by a large cross.

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    As a break from the "Then and Now" here are some miscellaneous photos.


    Hostal de Carluja was our home for the first 3 nights of our adventure. This home use to be the British Embassy for many years.

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    Street entertainers in "New Quito".

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    This was the interior of a very nice ice cream shop. Very modern.

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    Sandy, buying bananas from a local.....

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    #26
  7. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    Just another typical street in Quito

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    Just another church.

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    As this church grew, it required building it over the street.

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    The tunnel under the church.

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    Another shot of the Basilica.

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    #27
  8. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    The old "Banco Central del Ecuador".

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    Close-up - top of Banco.

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    The University.

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    But, back to the "Then and Now".


    This one was going to be tough photo to duplicate, based on the fact that the picture was taken from approximately 40 feet up!

    (note the long building on the right... it is the University... see photo above)

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    In order to get the picture, we will have to gain access to this building across the square in the picture above. It was an old hotel which had long closed down. It was all locked up, except for a guard at a side interest. The inside of the building is in the process of being torn out, and shafts for elevators be dug. He stated if we came back in 3 hours he would let us enter the building if we were careful. We returned a 1:00 pm and as the final workers left the building, he led us to the top floor.

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    #28
  9. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    Sandy, walking across a 2 by 10. Many holes in the upper floors had 30 foot drop offs.

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    This was the 4th floor and doors which we were hoping for access!

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    This was the reward for returning

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    Then


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    Now

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    Notice the large statue on the hill that is visible form everywhere in Old Quito.

    This is the statue from close range. It is nearly the size of the "Statue of Liberty".



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    As a closing picture for today, this is the patio of San Francisco church as seen from our fortunate access to it's tower.

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    #29
  10. Thorny

    Thorny Been here awhile

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    What a stellar journey. I hope your bike arives soon so that we can join you throughout the rest of South America.


    J
    #30
  11. Doug Matson

    Doug Matson Long timer

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    Great pictures, what a beautiful and clean place. Hope the bike shows up!
    #31
  12. Jim Bud

    Jim Bud Long timer

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    May you enjoy every minute of it....


    And send many pictures....... :D
    #32
  13. Thumpercrazee

    Thumpercrazee Long timer

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    A very unique way to do a trip! Well done! I will be waiting for each day and your posts.
    Great photos too.

    Thanks for sharing.

    TC :D
    #33
  14. DirtMerchant

    DirtMerchant Long timer

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    The before and after photos is a great concept. What camera(s) are you using?

    I like many here, look forward to living vicariously through your journey.

    Ride safe and we will be praying for you. :pope

    Rodney
    #34
  15. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    Not 100% sure yet. The bike was crated in a R1200GS crate. Irv Seavers BMW charged $175.00 for the crating. The shipping, I believe, will be about $1,000, but the bike got lost in the US, and the shipper stated that they will help make up time and now Air Frieght the bike. But, I have called the shipper 4 times over the last few days and nobody answers the phone. So, time will tell....
    #35
  16. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    We are using a Canon SD500, which we really like for its size and resolution (7.1 MP), which lets you crop the pictures and still have good detail. In addition, we are traveling with a Twinhead ruggedized laptop, and two GigaBank Harddrives (40GB & 100GB). The 40GB harddrive is very small (1.8 inch disk), and we are backing all photos to that harddrive, and then storing that harddrive separate from the Laptop, so that if we lost the laptop, we would still have the photos. We also have a Sat. phone for emergencies, but without the bike, it has not yet been used.

    We have enjoyed Quito, but this morning I am starting to get stir crazy. It is time to get out and see the back roads. As most ADV Riders feel, it is frustrating to not ¨Drive¨some type of motor vehicle.
    #36
  17. gmccon

    gmccon Banned

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    First of all, thank you for taking this trip "for us". I am excited.

    Do you find that Equador Spanish is spoken with a particular accent? Is it more Castilian than Mexican border Spanish, for example?

    For the most part, do the locals attend church, regularly?

    Why do people in California look at you like they want to kill you for even looking at them? Which may be a rhetorical question. You must feel very refreshed.

    greg

    #37
  18. hardybaker

    hardybaker Been here awhile

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    Like my friends have said "thanks for sharing the stories." We will be with you in spirit. Enjoy yourselves.
    #38
  19. Trey650

    Trey650 Are We There Yet?

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    Nice pics! I am looking forward to the rest of you adventure,
    #39
  20. Greg Minor

    Greg Minor The Trespasser

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    Hey Dale watch out for those headhunters to the east (be carefull) and have a great time
    #40