South American Adventure - 2 up on a R100GS

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Flyingavanti, Sep 1, 2005.

  1. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2004
    Oddometer:
    1,555
    I have a slow connection, so I will respond to the emails and questions when I get High Speed back. Thanks to all for the offers of help. We drove to Panama last year, and should posts some pictures, but we did the drive in a airport beater car (after the airplane crash).

    On Wednesday, the 14th of September, we are still waiting to get the bike released. We now have 2 complete days tied up, with no results. We decide to make the best of it, and visit the old section of Quito, again, and attend another concert. This is a jazz concert held in the plaza in front of Theatre National Sucre. I have never attended a concert with a backdrop as beautiful as this in Quito.

    The concert was covered by the local TV station.

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    Ended up buying the CD....

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    No, the smoke was not caused by a passing bus... It was a REAL disco smoke machine...

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    On Thursday, the 15th of September, we finally hit pay dirt, and the bike is released.

    <TABLE id=table2 cellSpacing=12 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width=157>We have been looking at this "Mission Statement" for the last 3 days. Can anybody tell what Exactly their mission is, as I do not have a clue. One letter which customs produced for us, was typed three times until they got the content correct.

    If this mission statement has anything to do with efficiency, they are not living up to the Mission!

    </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
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    And finally the bike is extracted from the secure area.


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    The bike came out fine... Not a scratch!

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    I was wondering how I was going to de-crate the bike, but as soon as it appeared, I had 10 helping hands.

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  2. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

    Joined:
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    It was less than 2 minutes to get this far.

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    Put the front wheel on and connect the battery.

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    Insert gas....

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    Install the wind screen, mirror and hand guards.


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    And, COMPLETE! Now it was time to take the bike back to the Hostel, and install the alarm and luggage.


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    We almost hated to leave Quito, as the owner of the Hostel became a friend.....


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    And we are now 100% ready to start the trip! I think.......

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    And THIS is what is ALL about!

    So off we go, heading south through the Andes. The ride for the next 80 to 100 miles is in a wide valley, but our altitude rarely drops below 10,000 feet, and we rise as high as 11,500. But we never felt high, as this is known as the "Ruta de Volcano's". The peaks are in the 16,000 to 18,000 foot range.


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  3. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

    Joined:
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    Every way you turn has views like this. Scenic overload!

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    Another volcano....

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    Cotopaxi...... 2nd highest in Ecuador.

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    Washing huge carrots

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    It was lunch time, but Sandy wanted to RIDE!

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    This is called COY in Ecuador...

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    A church in the valley.


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    When we get to Ambato, we turn east for Banos and the Amazon Basin.

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    We drove 12 miles total, to get to an "Adventure" resort.
    At $220.00 per night it was too adventurous for us

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    The view obtained for $220.00 per night.
    That is the city of Banos, in the bottom of the canyon.

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    Our $40.00 Hostel, in Banos.


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    On Saturday, the 17th of September, we leave Banos, to head northeast to drop into the western edge of the Amazon Basin.

    <TABLE id=table8 cellSpacing=12 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width=156>One last photo of Sandy and our Hostel, in Banos, Ecuador.


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  4. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

    Joined:
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    Notice the way the Ecuadorians farm on the steep mountain sides.

    Even the greenhouses are built on 45 degree slopes.

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    A waterfall in Banos drops right into a hot springs.

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    They have real horses and mules, but for pictures they use mockups....

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    The picture does not do this waterfall justice. It was very tall. We are about 1,500 feet above the river bottom.

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    The road in this area had 1,000 to 1,500 foot sheer drop offs into the canyon below.

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    This 30 mile ride is through the "Ruta of Waterfalls". Every mile or so, there is another fall. Sorry about the wires....

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    Because the walls of the canyon are as steep as they are, they built this section of road with at least ten tunnels, some of which were VERY long.

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    Then the day gets good. We encounter our first dirt road.........
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  5. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    Neat old swinging bridge across the river.

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    Another view of the bridge....

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    The bridge tips easily, as you cross it. I guess that is the allure of "Swinging Bridges".

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    Roadside flower stand.

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    Here we are, nearly to the floor of the Amazon Basin. According to the GPS, we are slightly over 2,000 miles, straight line, to the mouth of the Amazon, yet our altitude is down to 1,700 feet.



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    It had been a long day, so we starting thinking about FOOD!

    <TABLE id=table10 cellSpacing=12 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width=156>Note to self, again, we are no longer in Kansas. Sandy now has a change of mind, and seems that she is no longer as hungry, as she had earlier stated.

    Any guesses on the weights of these things?

    </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

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    So I stop again, knowing Sandy will get grumpy if she does not eat soon....
    Again she passes up another meal.

    Maybe Sandy is getting sick?

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    We were in the village of Puyo, where Sandy seemed to have lost her appetite.
    So, in an attempt to lure Sandy to go farther, I suggest that maybe Tena might have some excellent dining opportunities.

    I did not realize when I took this picture, that the balance of the distance was dirt and rock road...

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    The modes of transportation vary in the Amazon Basin. This mode of transportation is relatively fast....


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    This mode is slow....
    The colors of the following pictures are very washed out, as the skies were overcast. Sorry...

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  6. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

    Joined:
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    Some of the homes of the Amazon Basin....

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    Room with a view.....

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    Again the lighting resulted in very poor photographs.

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    Hey, at least the clouds came out nice...

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    Saturdays must be the wash days, as it seemed that every house had hanging cloths.

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  7. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    A small village........

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    Roadside "Lobster Claws".

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    One more river crossing... One lane, with dust.....

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    And then THIS! This was 30 miles back on a dirt road. Go figure.....

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  8. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

    Joined:
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    We spent the entire day on the bike, and only covered 90 miles. The GPS states that our average moving speed is only 18 mph.

    Guess I am getting old and slow!

    View, over looking river, from our $20.00 room...

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    The town of Tena is split by a river running though it. This is the foot bridge which connects both sides of town. We have not yet found the road which connects the town.

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    Sandy's appetite finally returns, so we dine overlooking the river. The Ecuadorians are still friendly in the jungles....

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    The view from our table...........

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    The beer comes is huge bottles, so one is enough, and hey, it's costing me a whopping $1.20!
    I had my 4th pepper steak in a row.

    I am going to have to change my eating habits back to fruit, or the BMW's suspension could fail prematurely!

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    As the pig use to say.... "That's All Folks"

    Adios for now...........
  9. RichBomb

    RichBomb Curse of the Lono

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Austin, Texas
    Loving it! I think my senior thesis film will be about a ride from Cleveland to Patagonia :ricky
  10. Mz660

    Mz660 Rydethere

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2004
    Oddometer:
    333
    Location:
    Washington
    This is awesome...look forward to every pic.:tb
  11. BoxerRob

    BoxerRob Opportunity Knocker

    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2004
    Oddometer:
    105
    Location:
    Snohomish, WA
    Let me know when you get close to Cuzco...I have contacts there...or just walk into Norton's Bar(on the square, owned by a Brit, named after the bike) and state your business. They'll fix you up right.
    Martin Chambe was a photographer active in Cuzco pre WWII. Look up his gallery in Cuzco, not much hanging but a place to start. There are still photos by Chambe hanging in family homes in Cuzco w/people who can describe the details of the photo.
    Keep your speed down, lose the tank bag, ride solo when prudent, keep your payload weight low and remember you're riding a motorcycle in South America.
    And don't post anything on electronic media or handcarried journal that you would'nt want to be read by your employer, Interpol, US Dept. of State, the border authorities of the country that you're sure you won't be going back to...just imagine that there is a well developed international criminal organization that has it out for you.
  12. NAVIGATOR

    NAVIGATOR Wanderer

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2002
    Oddometer:
    1,808
    Location:
    SOUTH OF THE USA BORDER(friendlier Mexico)
    Take care and thank´s for posting not just the beautifull road pics, but for showing also us a lot more of the particular culture of the Country.
    I can´t wait to see and read the rest of the trip you are enjoying.
    Travel safe
  13. Bgunn

    Bgunn Mucha distancia

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Rockford, Wa
    Enjoying the adventure... Funny how Sandy's appetite comes and goes..
    The pic of the cooked rat looked yummy !! :lol3
  14. GusHn

    GusHn No foreign lands...

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Tegucigalpa, Honduras
    To manage customs services in an agile and honest manner, with the goal of simplifying and better controlling these services in modern international commerce, on the basis of integrated and automated processes, with a strong competitive nature that guarantees excellence of service to our internal and external customers, actively contributing to the development of the Ecuadorian nation.

    It does not make any sense in Spanish either.

    Safe riding !
  15. Wallace

    Wallace Seat belt tight babe?

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    841
    Incredible stuff! Thanks for sharing.:D
  16. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

    Joined:
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    Three days of dirt roads, and I got an itch to head back to the Andes. Slow connection, so pictures may be tonight.....
  17. mipa22

    mipa22 n00b

    Joined:
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    4
    Keep it coming, Your adventure looks great.
  18. Dale, your snapshot skills are as sharp as the day you turned 55.:D Those shots are so beautiful and they capture your subjects perfectly. Keep snappin' bro' and love to Sandy. MM
  19. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

    Joined:
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    On Sunday, the 18th of September, we left Tena and heading north on dirt road. Although the road looked like a major route, it was rough dirt travel. Our total distance for the day was 11.7 miles, in air thick and stifling. Temperatures were 90 plus with humidity to match. We stumbled on a jungle lodge, of which we were the only visitors, and were treated like kings. The owners migrated from Belgium 7 years ago.

    Homes located along the road to Hakuna Matata were very basic, but usually very clean.


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    A "basic" existence....

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    Just another "Swinging Bridge".
    The bridges sway enough that Sandy walked it.

    On the way out she did ride on the bike.

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    Our "Suite" in the jungle.......

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    The room was clean and "BUGLESS"!
    There were no glass windows, only screens.

    We enjoy the room, hospitality and environment so much we elected to stay two days.


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    This was the cook, bartender and all around girl. She was of the Quechua indigenous group, of which we had read much about.....

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    Another view of our room.

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    Another indigenous group which hung around the cocktail bar area.

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  20. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

    Joined:
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    Tropical plants were in abundance.

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    and more.....

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    and more.....

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    and fungi everywhere...

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    And more Fungi......

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    And more Fungi......

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    Klinger, our "local" tour guide took us for a 2 hour hike through the jungle.

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    Due to all the rivers and streams, there are swinging bridges all through the jungles.
    This bridge had a large pipe on the right side, which took fresh water to the village of Tena.

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    Before we left Hakuna Matata, we were tempted to swim in the river under the swinging bridge. It was one of the few times I had seen a "SAND" beach on a jungle river.
    This is what I imagine the environment to be like in the "Survivor" show on CBS, but there were surprises.
    It is not always as it appears..........


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    The location was idyllic, but....

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    So here we are in the Amazon Basin thinking that life was perfect until.......

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    Then, for some reason I got the itch to head back into the Andes........

    You may want to fast forward over the next picture. We have been in the jungle for 4 days, and not a bite, until we got in the river, in a spot that looked like paradise. Note to self..... No need to sign up for "Survivor"! The expansion about the belt line is due to having Filet Mignon for dinner nearly every night for 2 weeks.

    Once on the coast of Ecuador we will e switching to fish..........


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