Take The Wrong Way Home, Iran 2017

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Harti, Oct 10, 2017.

  1. Harti

    Harti Been here awhile

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    Hi Art,

    that's exactly the plan. I took the HP2 to Ireland earlier this year and now to Iran. 20.000 mls. on the clock and in great shape... Stored in my garage I let her age to perfection...
  2. Harti

    Harti Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    This is our hardware.

    Helis BMW F 800 GS

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    F 800 GS: Weight: 500 pounds
    Fuel consumption: 56 mpg - 4,2 l/100 km
    Fuel capacity: 4.5 gal - 17 l
    Range: 250 mls - 400 km

    Heli did not need extra gas containers...

    Martinas BMW F 650 GS

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    F 650 GS: Weight: 460 pounds.
    Fuel consumption: 67 mpg - 3.5 l/100 km
    Fuel capacity: 4.2 gal - 16 l
    Range: 250 mls - 400 km

    Martina had two little containers with 0.4 gal of gas in her side bags, just to be on the safe side...

    And my BMW HP2

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    HP2: Weight 440 pounds.
    Fuel consumption: 46 mpg - 5.1 l/100 km
    Fuel capacity: 3.4 gal - 13 l
    Range: 140 mls - 225 km

    I had two 1.3 gal jerrycans on board. But I needed only one. If at all, our gas problems were selfmade by our own miscalculations...

    Gas was way cheaper than in Germany. Georgia 2.50 $ per gallon, Iran 80 ¢ per gallon. Like back in the 80s...

    We checked the oil level every other day. We didn't notice any consumption whatsoever over 4.000 mls. Just out of old habits I put 1 quart in over time...

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    Heli dropped his bike a few times. Nothing serious. Only once he rear-ended my bike and crashed. The fall looked spectacular, but was harmless in the end.
    The battery connectors came lose. That caused a few wrinkles on his forehead. But the problem was soon found and eliminated for good.

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    Martina had driven her bike into a ditch. Also no harm. Only one plastic hook of a pannier broke off and had to be fixed by a strap.
    The mount for the two retracting springs of the side-stand broke off and had to be repaired temporarily by wire.

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    My side-stand came lose. Fixed on the go.
    In Kurdistan with all the winding roads I had a total rear break failure. Scary. Luckily I had a spare set of break pads with me and changed them in 15 minutes.
    I experienced from time to time difficulties to start when in gear with the clutch lever pulled. No problems when in neutral. Now, back in Germany, the problem is gone. Weird...

    [​IMG]

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    We opted for the Continental TKC 70. These tires were excellent onroad and good enough offroad. Only on mud we felt a little insecure, but I guess that's normal...

    For how we treated the bikes I must say, they did a great job with only insignificant glitches...

    Let's have a look at our Iranian bike competitors.

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    A Gold Wing as a decoration in a store.

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    He gets at least serious attention when needed...

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    I wonder, why BMW doesn't offer this design for the HP2...

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    Another "horny" bike...

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    Airfilter... overrated...

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    As long as the bike works...

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    Lights... also overrated...

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    You can't lock 'em though...

    [​IMG]

    Iran has an upper limit of 200 cc. No wonder people are attracted by foreign bikes from the moon...
  3. Harti

    Harti Been here awhile

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    Folks,

    this is going to be my last post on Iran. I'll be around though for any questions or suggestions.

    I just want to talk about money and make some final remarks.

    [​IMG]

    This calculation is for one person.

    We started with 2,500.- € cash. US $ would have been also fine, but we had only €.
    Our credit cards were useless in Iran, but were often used in Azerbaijan, Armenia and Georgia for gas and accommodation.

    We paid for the Iran visa agency: 306.- € - 361.-$.
    Visa Azerbaijan: 20.- € - 23.60 $.
    Int'l driver's license: 15.- € - 17.70 $.
    Int'l registration: 11.- € - 13.- $.
    Passport photos: 20.- € - 23.60 $.
    Carnet de Passage: 210.- € - 247.80 $.

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    Domestic bike transport to the shipping company: 113.- € - 133.- $.

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    Bike transport round trip Germany to Georgia : 1,490.- € - 1760.- $.

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    Flight ticket roundtrip Berlin - Tbilisi: 289.- € - 341.- $.

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    Accommodation for 42 nights: about 600.- € - 708.- $.

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    Gas: about 200.- € - 236.- $.

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    Food, pocket money, souveniers, entrance fees...: 420.- € - 496.- $.

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    Bike pick-up from the shipping company: 120.- € - 141.60 $.

    So this trip was in total: 3,570.- € - 4,213 $.

    And that's really not bad for a wonderful trip to a very remote area off the beaten track.

    As much as I critizise political systems and individual citizens for their sometimes absurd behaviour... I still like to go to these countries where I find mostly good people. The one's that are interested in progress, humanity, objectivity and impartiality, prosperity in a good way for all, not the brutal capitalism, where a few benefit and the supressed mass is at a disadvantage. It drives me to compare a cliche of a country or a religion or a lifestyle with what personal experiences I make.

    See for yourself and live to tell the truth.

    Thank you for watching.

    [​IMG]
  4. Muncle

    Muncle Been here awhile

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    Thanks for sharing ,
    Your views of a country and the people were very informative to this NW American.
    Thanks for breaking it down into areas of interest and going into a bit more detail.
    Excellent ride report.
  5. chudzikb

    chudzikb Been here awhile

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    Thank you for taking the time to write this up and so thoroughly document your trip. Sadly, most of us in the U.S. will never get the chance to do such an amazing trip. But, viewing it through your camera and prose is a great second. And for that we thank you!
  6. X Banana Boy

    X Banana Boy stuck in the office

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    Loved following your trip. Thanks for the great report and pics!!
  7. enduro0125

    enduro0125 Sticks and Stones™..

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    You might want to ditch that visa photo
    Your passport number is clearly visible.
  8. Harti

    Harti Been here awhile

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    Thanks Dan.
  9. de crowe

    de crowe de crowe

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    thanks for all of that, definitely food for thought.
  10. young1

    young1 Long timer

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    We travelled with a small group in Iran for three weeks in October. The other 7 with us were all in UK passports so it can be done.

    Kiwi Mike
  11. Harti

    Harti Been here awhile

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    Did you roam Iran by bike? And how did you get them there? I don't assume you rented them there as they don't allow big bikes in the country...?
  12. DreamCatcher

    DreamCatcher Carpe Diem

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    Harti,

    thank you for a very interesting / detailed description of the experience on your trip. I enjoyed reading it.
    Although I do not understand one thing well: why did you take the heavy camping equipment with you? You used it only a few times.

    Best regards
    Paul
  13. Dan Alexander

    Dan Alexander nail bender

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  14. enduro0125

    enduro0125 Sticks and Stones™..

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    Interesting three days happening over there.
  15. DCrider

    DCrider Live from THE Hill

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    Fabulous report Harti, just like the others, been quite a while since having a beer in DC, glad to see you are doing well.
  16. Harti

    Harti Been here awhile

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    Happy New Year everyone.

    @ Paul: It's embarrassing... we camped out exactly three times and hauled the entire gear around for six weeks. We simply underestimated the fact, that hostels and hotels were available in noumerous amounts and for little money. Most of them with breakfast and dinner... On the other hand... it's always reassuring to be totally independant when it comes to staying overnite in remote villages or unknown territory. We have set up our tent once in a large room to avoid mosquitos...

    @ Erik: Howdy Erik. Long time no see... I have settled in Berlin now, quit my job and roam the world. That's a lot of fun, I must say. Washington DC is on top of my list where to go next, and when in town I give you a heads up for another round of beer...
    DreamCatcher likes this.
  17. DCrider

    DCrider Live from THE Hill

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    Sounds good!
  18. Stara Varos

    Stara Varos Adventurer

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    @Harti ,

    greetings from Thessaloniki [GR].

    Next time your compass shows you south, give me a heads up, as in Greece refrigerators still work fine :lol3 and beers are always ice cold.

    I have to sound like an echo, but yes.. that was an excellent read. Many thanks for sharing your experience. A part of it reminded my 2015 ride to Georgia.

    Last year, about that month, me and my friends also planned a 3 week ride to Iran, passing almost same countries/cities as you did. As i was +1 family member i had to cancel it for a while, so Iran is still high on my bucket list. Maybe Oct' 18 will be the time...
    Reading your report gave also some answers to things i came across while planning as the "camping/hotel" matter, if fuel is found in remote places etc. I have some questions: did you arrange the CDP before or to the border 'fixers'? I see it has been quite a business down there. What do you think of ADAC? Do they provide any services in Iran?

    (Didnt mean to write so many)

    Once again, thanks for the RR sir
    George
  19. Harti

    Harti Been here awhile

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    Hi George,

    thank you for the invitation. Highly accepted... :clap

    An individual trip to Iran has never been easy. The proclaimed enemies of the country have had a hard time to get a visa at all, we mid-Europeans have had less problems to make it to Iran. We opted for a trip in 2017 because the window of opportunity was wide open. Obama had lifted the embargo a great deal, Europe had started new investments with Teheran and Ahmadineschad was replaced by the more moderate Rohani. Optimists would have said, the Iranian people had something like a worthy future... That was the climate in which we visited Iran.

    Now the whole fragile structure has gotten several cracks... Trump withdrew many treaties with Iran. The referendum to proclaim a sovereign state for all Kurds in the area in October stressed the mullahs on top of the economic problems and after the earthquake of last November, the government responded very reluctantly to the needs of the victims.

    Now we hear about riots and an uprise of the people who are no longer willing to accept the suppression by the religous leaders and their orientation of values, moral and behaviour. And a lot of money goes down the drain by making more enemies than friends...

    That is the situation now. Who knows, what will happen next...

    As for the Carnet de Passage: In Germany it is very easy to get a CdP. The issuing authority is the German automobile club ADAC. As a member (the annual premium is some 60 €) you pay only 210 €. You then have to put a safety deposit down in order to make sure the bike gets reimported to Germany, according to the value of the bike. In my case 7500 €, in my wife's case 3000 €. We got this security money back in full after showing up at the German customs office right after the trip.

    I have no idea if non-German residents can apply for a German CdP though. That you have to ask your automobile club or your Chamber of Commerce or whoever is responsable for issuing the CdP.

    I hope, I could help.
    KLRalph and Stara Varos like this.
  20. Stara Varos

    Stara Varos Adventurer

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    Thank you for the answer @Harti !

    We hear pretty much the same things here about the situation in Iran. Im not sure when all this will be stabilised again, if ever..

    As a member of adac, i found their offer to get german cdp even more expensive, than the greek automobile club ELPA. Here the price is ~100€ for the carnett and a deposit of 3.000€ for my 2005 1200gs. I guess you know there are 'border fixers' that can issue the cdp for (if i recall) about 400€ and no deposit, but i really dont trust that option.

    invitation is ON anytime!

    Be safe