TE610 Clutch Cable

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Xfool, Nov 25, 2006.

  1. Xfool

    Xfool Been here awhile

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    The TE610 clutch cable makes a sharp 60 degree turn into mounting bracket on the engine case. The sharp turn kinked the housing on my cable ultimately causing the cable to fray and break at about 4,000 miles.

    Barnett makes clutch cables and was willing to adapted a cable off of a metric cruiser for the Husky. The cable has a ridged 60 degree bend at the mount point (Barnett refers to this as a 120 degree bend). The rigid bend should keep the cable from breaking at the turn again.

    My bars are raised 2" over stock and the stock cable housing was OK on my bike. Since Barnett was making a custom cable I had them add an extra 1/4" to the cable core length to make installation a little easier. The added length gives 5 1/2" of free cable.
    #1
  2. Xfool

    Xfool Been here awhile

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    The Barnett cable core is nylon coated and the cable house Teflon lined.

    An unexpected problem: The stock husky cable end has an OD of about 0.31. The Barnett cable has a really nice cable end with an OD of 0.31, in theory a perfect fit. But the receiver on the clutch perch has an ID of 0.36, never really noticed the slop before because the receiver is really deep. The shoulder on the Barnett cable end won’t let the cable go in that deep so the slop is more noticeable. I put a brass shim on the cable end to snug it up. Now that we know, Barnett has a larger cable end that will match up with the 0.36 receiver diameter. Measure the clutch perch reciever and let Barnett know when you order one.

    As is the cable lines up OK and I don’t think its going to rub on anything that will fray it. We’ll have to wait for a couple thousand clutch pulls and see how it turns out.
    #2
  3. Xfool

    Xfool Been here awhile

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    After breaking my cable I found gaspipe's advice "carry a peddley bike cable core as a spare". That was good advice ...... but to late for me. Barnett sent this nylon cased cable core as a spare along with a couple of cool cable clamps which might just get me, or someone else, home after the next cable failure.
    #3
  4. Xfool

    Xfool Been here awhile

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    Quality of the Barnett cable seems to be the real deal. The housing and cable are quite a bit stiffer than stock. The stiffer cable gives more free-play in the clutch adjustment, something the through-out bearing will appreciate. We'll see how stiff it is after it breaks in.

    Some hoopla from the Barnett web site:
    Barnett "High Efficiency" clutch cables can reduce clutch lever effort up to 40%! These new "HE" cables feature a nylon coated inner wire and when combined with our HDPE inner liner and silicone lube, result in an ultra smooth cable action and less lever effort.
    #4
  5. Xfool

    Xfool Been here awhile

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    Fortuitously the ridged bend clutch cable housing lines up OK with the break reservoir. I was prepared to reposition the reservoir, but the whole thing jammed together pretty much like stock.

    Barnett "saved the plans" for the cable so if you are looking for a TE610 clutch cable you might want to give them a shot. For rev2 I think the angle should be increased from 120 to something like 115 degrees, the bend moved closer to the mount and the cable end diameter spiffed up a bit to match the clutch perch. OK as is just a couple of improvements for the pedantic web slaves. :eek1

    Barnett (Mark)
    2238 Palma Dr
    Ventura, CA 93003
    (805) 642-9435

    TE610 clutch cable w/spare core: $58 + shipping.

    Barnett no longer retails these cables and they want you to order through your local dealer. If you hate going to your local honda dealer to order parts for your husky you may be able to order the cable through http://www.cyclebrakes.com. They are also in Ventura, CA and do allot of business selling Galfer break pads.
    #5
  6. buffallodan

    buffallodan Long timer

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    Nice Post.
    Added to index.

    Dan
    #6
  7. Chadleys1

    Chadleys1 working on it

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    Good information Xfool, thanks!
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  8. Xfool

    Xfool Been here awhile

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    I have about 3,000 miles on this cable now and I have to say, for as much as you could expect from a clutch cable, it really is a nice improvement. The pull is smoother and the housing more rigid. The rigid housing gives me ¼” free play in the clutch and a whole lot less the clutch plate drag when stopped. Neutral is much easier to find at a stop light.

    Here is the down side. With the smooth pull you can really feel the clutch springs if you try and hold the clutch through a stop light cycle. :D
    #8
  9. levity

    levity nano-Adventurer

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    thought a better cable might give a smoother pull and help finding neutral,
    so I followed Xfool’s lead and ordered a Barnett.


    when I removed the OEM cable I was surprised to find that it was already beginning to fray at the clutch end at ~1k miles :huh
    this is the same place Xfool’s cable failed at 4k miles.

    [​IMG]

    the lower end was also kinked in two place near the cable stop.

    [​IMG]


    good news is that Barnett listened to Xfool and made the clutch cable end button the same size as the OEM end button – it fits well.
    However, they could still make the bend on the cable stop tube a bit sharper to bring the cable closer to the cases.

    [​IMG]

    first test ride showed a clear improvement! :clap thanks for the tip, Cal!
    can now find neutral when stopped (but requires pulling lever in fully - not possible with just two fingers).
    #9
  10. Ted West

    Ted West n00b-ish

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    Levity,

    Thanks for the bump, I just placed my order. I'm at ~3400 miles so I figured I'd be proactive and install the new cable now and leave the OEM one plumbed in for redundancy / backup.

    Thanks also to Xfool for the beta testing and legwork!

    One question, I spoke to Mark about the ferrel (sp?) diameter (0.31" vs. 0.36") and he said he's been sending out cables at 0.31". I'm a little unclear why you wrote the 0.36" is the diameter to ask for. Is that because of the plastic sleeve on the OEM cable? I ordered the 0.31" ferrel but now I'm wondering if I should call back and make it 0.36"

    Thanks again :thumb
    #10
  11. Svart

    Svart ...is swedish for black

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    Thanks a lot for writing about this! I´ll have a look at my bike tomorrow and se how it looks at the -07.
    (Haven´t bought it yet, will do that tomorrow :) )
    #11
  12. husky123

    husky123 Long timer

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    Wow, a frayed cable at 1000 miles is pretty scary!

    I love my bike so much more with that Barnett it's not even funny! Finding neutral is no longer an issue. And it has a MUCH better feel (yes you will FEEL the difference). I don't even work for them.:D

    I did get mine a couple of inches longer than stock to compensate for my massive PT Enduro ape hangers and Travis P high bars though.
    #12
  13. buffallodan

    buffallodan Long timer

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    So did you ask for Two more inches or do you have a total length? I am thinking of going with a similar control setup as you...tia

    Dan
    #13
  14. Xfool

    Xfool Been here awhile

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    Two things here (look at the pic in post #2). There is a cable housing end with a stepped shoulder and a button on the end of the cable core.

    The cable housing end needs a diameter of 0.36” to mate up with the adjuster cup on the clutch perch.

    The button on the cable core fits OK and doesn’t need the plastic sleeve of the stock cable.

    Something to consider, I have my bars raised about 2”. The stock housing length I used is OK when the cable is routed underneath and between the handle bar mounts. If you have a steering stabilizer you will need a longer cable to route around the stabilizer.
    #14
  15. husky123

    husky123 Long timer

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    Dan,

    PM me with your email and I'll send you the drawing that Joe Snell from Barnett sent me. The casing length is standard 37.5 inches. I ended up going with 39 or 39.5...I can't quite remember. Either will make it though with a tall bar setup. I'll try to see if I can post it too.

    If you need to talk to someone at Barnett just ask for Joe Snell (805-642-9435). He knows the Husky setup well. Diagram below.

    Lee
    #15
  16. husky123

    husky123 Long timer

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    Here you go:

    [​IMG]
    #16
  17. Ted West

    Ted West n00b-ish

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    Perfect. Normally I'd say next time you're in Boston beers are on me but the last time I wrote that some wheelie dude from Poland hopped on a plane :D
    #17
  18. buffallodan

    buffallodan Long timer

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    Thanks Lee! :D

    Dan
    #18
  19. sTE610vE

    sTE610vE First on the brakes, last on the gas...

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    In the "for what it's worth" file I noticed when my clutch cable broke at the lever and I had to pull all the slack out of it with a temporary fix and that I could find neutral much easier that ever before. I think others have mentioned this but I just thought I'd put my 2 cents in too. Maybe there is more slack in the mechanism than is apparent even when you have the cable adjusted pretty tight. Of course it's a fine line you don't want to adjust it out were the clutch is slipping. I replaced my '03 with a factory cable for that has the curved housing were it goes around the cylinder on the right side of the engine, it look like the newer version they took that curved housing out and that may be causing problems. If the aftermarket cables work better are you adjusting them like you would a standard one or tighter?
    Anybody else have input/advice on the adjustment?:ear
    #19
  20. Xfool

    Xfool Been here awhile

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    Boston, never been to Boston… Now that I have a 5 gallon tank that’s like only 15 fill-ups and two rear tires away. So if I leave now I'll be there in about a month.

    So from the end of the TAT out there in Tennessee how do I get to Boston?

    sTE610vE: The stock cable housing flexes too much. You need an 85w. (what ever that is, see drawing).
    #20