the DR200 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by klxrdr, May 13, 2007.

  1. FAW3

    FAW3 Old wanderer

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    To get your bike running with the least headache after long term neglectful storage:

    Fuel system: the advice to get a new set of jets is spot on. The very small size of the jets in a small bike like the DR200 are simply much easier to replace as new rather than spend time cleaning and risk of damage. Clean the carb well and install new jets. Remove the tank, clean it, and install an inline fuel filter - the clear plastic kind. You might find petcock issues also...check the vacuum line is not loose/cracked (if desired or needed: replace OEM vacuum petcock with a simple on/off/reserve petcock...threads here explain and offer sources). Check the Idle/Mix screw...likely set too lean.

    Battery if battery is at all questionable...replace with new. Clean connections and check wiring harness for any wear spots, poor connections, etc.

    Spark Plug and wire: Inspect both for condition and replace if needed. Often a cleaning is all the plug needs.

    Oil & filter change: Change oil & filter.

    Air Filter: Inspect/replace as indicated. Often old filters are just rotten...mine was.

    The DR200 engine is very simple and reliable...give it clean fuel in a properly set up carb, good cranking, and clean air...it should run for a loooooong time!!! Enjoy :D

    Just my opinion: forget about performance mods. It's a 200cc bike.
  2. dooped

    dooped Been here awhile

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    Awesome! Thanks for the advice guys, I really appreciate it.:clap

    Sorta got her to run for a good 10 seconds. Checked the spark plug, which looked brand new, and had great spark. New oil, new oil filter, new air filter, and borrowed the well charged battery from my DR650. Cleaned the gas tank, added fresh gas with a tiny bit of seafoam. Sprayed a tiny short burst of starting spray and got it to start, but it died once the ether ran out. So it's almost certainly a fuel system issue. I'll take all of your advice and give the carb a really nice clean and replace the jets; it was a simple job on the 650 so I can't imagine it will be too bad on this bike. Looks like the previous owner already drilled the air/fuel mixture screw (side note: bike came from approximately same elevation). Actually just yesterday purchased one of those clear inline fuel filters for it, along with a new chain, new fork seals, new wheel bearings, new front brake lever and master cylinder, turn signals, front brake pads, rear brake shoes, and a new petcock.

    When I did the dr650 I used procycles carb kit, but they don't seem to have a section for 200's. Does anyone know if the moose kit works?

    As for why the bike needs so much work, he mentioned it has been a learner bike for about 3-4 people. Also here's a pic of the bike ad, there seem to be at least 4 toys in the background, and his other photos had at least 3 more toys. Apparently he had sold 4 trailers, 2 sleds, and 2 bikes already this month. He mentioned he used to work in powersports and then moved to agriculture when it became more profitable. So I think the cause of neglect is that he has so many toys, and the cause of abuse is a bunch of new riders.


    [​IMG]
  3. Jbrap

    Jbrap n00b

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    Yeah, as I am a complete tyre noob my girl offered to drop it off at the local Suzuki dealer to have it repaired. They told her it would be ready in four days! I should just learn to do it myself but have never been sure how to tell when the tyre needs replacing or can repaired.
  4. dooped

    dooped Been here awhile

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    Went ahead and bought the Moose carb rebuild kit, will be nice to freshen it up.
  5. suseuser

    suseuser Love to ride

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    Wow, you are pretty much making her a new bike! It is nice that the DR is easy to work on. That was one of the big selling features when I was looking for one.
  6. dooped

    dooped Been here awhile

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    Going to be stoked to get her freshened up again, I love seeing an old bike come back to life.

    Definitely love the ease of working on it, and one thing that has made it stand out from my dr650 is the price of parts; I can't believe how inexpensive everything is. I've spent a little over $200 in parts as of right now and that's to do a pretty big overhaul.
  7. motozuki

    motozuki booney cruiser

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    New rider and 2015 dr200 owner here. This thread is awesome by the way! Could anyone post a link to the Minimalist Tourer thread? Can't find it.
  8. Joelness

    Joelness Adventurer

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  9. mkriley

    mkriley Been here awhile

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    anybody done it? If so can you post pictures and part numbers.
    They get in the way of my gear when packed up for a camping trip.
    mike
  10. dooped

    dooped Been here awhile

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    And there are 4 more that I couldn't fit in this photo. All for the DR200. Time is at a crawl.

    [​IMG]
  11. packerbacker

    packerbacker Been here awhile

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    if you have enough wire already just find a cpl scraps of metal or starboard and drill a hole on each end to make your own extensions - removable/adjustable/free
  12. suseuser

    suseuser Love to ride

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    The first thing I would do if I were going to tour on the 200 would be to change the seat. After a couple hours straight of riding I'm ready to walk! I found that it's pretty easy to pack a weeks worth of gear if you keep your camping equipment simple. If you don't plan on camping it's easier yet. Food seems to be the biggest space hog. I've found that a Jet Boil and some of the dehydrated backpacker meals work great. I have a sleeping bag that will compress down smaller than a football. It doesn't take much in the way of packing skills to get that into a decent size dry bag along with clothes and bike repair essentials. The rule is make the list of what you think you should take then cut that in half. I actually have a book somewhere the house that is titled, "Motorcycle Camping". I know this isn't a link you were looking for but don't let folks over complicated things. The less time you spend messing with things that don't involve riding, the more time you can spend riding.
  13. dooped

    dooped Been here awhile

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    Got all the new parts in and got to work. First up was the carb rebuild using the kit from Moose. Things went smoothly until the very end. Had a brass washer in the Moose kit that wasn't in the carb when I disassembled it. I looked at the exploded diagram and it looks like it is number 16, except it didn't fit there, so I left it out because the carb didn't seem to have it in the first place. Someone definitely has been into the carb in the past, so it is possible that the original brass washer was left out when the previous owner tried rebuilding it. Also ended up with an extra o-ring. This one, however, doesn't even appear in the parts fiche. Below is a pic of the leftover pieces, and below that is the diagram. Looks like the guy in this thread same across the same extra parts, although for a very different carb.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]






    So after rebuilding the carb we installed the new petcock, put in fresh gas and tried starting it. The bike started a bit but ran very rough and backfired a few times. I'm worried the missing carb parts may be partially responsible. Another problem I encountered was that the rubber boots between the airbox/carb and carb/head didn't seem to extend enough to seal as well as I would have preferred. I could get one side of the carb covered by a boot, but then the other side wouldn't have enough of the rubber boot over it. I prioritized the head/carb side, but made sure there weren't any air gaps on either side. There just wasn't very much rubber covering the airbox/carb side. Tomorrow I plan to try starting it again tomorrow and spray a little starting fluid (ether) around the rubber boots to confirm if there are leaks. I'm also wondering if potentially the valves need work. The bike only has 3000 miles but it also sat for a very long time.

    But as I started it a couple more times throughout the night it started running better and better, perhaps dusting off the cobwebs inside and out if ya know what I mean?


    So then we moved on to the front brakes. Replacing the pads was no problem, then went to replace the front master cylinder/lever and the fluid inside the master cylinder was pretty gunky and dirty. So I cleaned it out and temporarily put on the new front brake M/C and lever, but tomorrow I'm going to drain and bleed the brakes.

    Rear brake shoes were very easy to replace. Moved on to replacing the chain. I took the counter sprocket cover off and was greeted by quite a few cobwebs. The sprocket seemed a little loose, there was a tiny bit of a wiggle to it. Although I read online that a little lateral play is actually okay? I also realized that the new chain I bought has a rivet style master link, so there's another tool I need to fabricate, buy or borrow.
  14. acjeske

    acjeske n00b

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    I'm from the US but currently living in South Africa. Here, there's a OEM front and rear rack for the DR200. I'm thinking of getting this bike once back stateside. If the racks aren't available there, I'd buy them here.

    So, has anyone seen the standard Suzuki racks?

    I've searched a bit but only have seen a couple aftermarket racks.

    TIA.
  15. Joelness

    Joelness Adventurer

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    Buy them there, we don't have 'em.
  16. Jbrap

    Jbrap n00b

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    After installation of a new Yamaha petcock, my bike has started acting weird. When cold with the choke pulled out it starts like normal then after a few minutes revs out of control. Made sure I plugged the vacuum port correctly. Any ideas?
  17. no

    no kidding

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    That's the way mine has always behaved. There's a mid-choke position detente that you can use to bring down the rpms yet still have a little choke on.
  18. ontargetnow

    ontargetnow Mudslinger

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    I have one on mine, but had to buy a Suzuki Trojan to get it. Stripped the Trojan of all the goodies not available on a US spec dr 200, and then sold the Trojan.
  19. Jbrap

    Jbrap n00b

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    Thanks Klay, never have a bike do that before. If anyone's interested I got the chance to compare the two Yamaha petcocks that have been recommended in this thread as a replacement for the factory vacuum operated part.


    Left: Factory Suzuki Vacuum Centre: Yamaha 23F-24500-11-00 (TTR) Right: Yamaha 5LP-24500-01(Raptor)
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    As mentioned in post #3086 the Yamaha 23F-24500-11-00 (TTR) is definitely the one to go for, is a direct replacement, same fuel line size, no modification required and reserve is closer to factory.
    suprbst likes this.
  20. no

    no kidding

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    Post #2 updated.