Baking Oil is your short answer . In that area they cultivate many sorts of seeds, which are used to make oil, which we are unaccustomed to. Our stomachs just don't like it that much, but it's very normal for them. They use mainly Palm, Soya and Rapeseed for cooking. When you have a cooked meal (hostel, restaurant) in small villages, there's high chance this oil is used and your stomach might or might not object. We had few people (including myself) suffering in Dushanbe after we ordered a pizza. Locals had no probs with same pizza. In Murghab, following the last post, we had difficulties digesting the breakfast from the hostel, which was only baked eggs and bits of meat. The bread and dinner (lamb meat soup) was all good. In a couple of days from last post, i'll have a full system shutdown, which was caused by eating plums from the ground. We never had probs with the water, just the oil. Anti-crap pills and good stock of toilet paper is a must and your best line of defense . Ah right, Ben had probs with water one time. He stopped somewhere in Tajikistan to have a chat with a local who offered him tea. The tea was cooked from water coming from a nearby river. He suffered greatly after that. Always filter or buy bottled water... Thanks for the note on the photos.