'07 TuneECU Map reviews and musings

Open intakes and open exhaust on an early 990... I don't have experience with this.

Hey chaps. Got a question for the people in the know. I recently installed the Zuber #3 tune. After installing it I reset adaptations and did the 15 min idle. Today on my commute in the idle seems a bit low and the bike died several times at stops and once mid corner. So I'm trying to sort out the issue beyond bumping the idle up.

While connected with TuneECU I monitored the TPS voltage and saw it drop down to 0.66v. I understand I should adjust it to 0.60v I didn't have the time on hand to dig into it as that moment. I also tried the "adjust throttle cables" but wasn't sure how to adjust them so left them as is as well. I looked at the throttles, or so I thought in TuneECU and they don't appear to be synced. Once again not sure how to sync them or adjust the cables.

My big question is do I sort out the throttle cables or throttle bodies first or TPS first?

TPS voltage is the most important thing. To do that, you have to pull the RH gas tank and you are 99% of the way to doing the rest.

BTW, just drill a hole through the air box to reach the TPS screw.

Ok. I'll pull the tank off tonight when I get home then. Am I correct then that the proper order is:

1. Download tune
2. Reset adaptions
3. Set TPS, use TuneECU
4. Adjust throttle cables, use TuneECU
5. Sync throttle bodies, use TuneECU
6. 15 min idle

Is this a good basic order for all to use? Also, is all of this covered in the owners manual or is it in the service manual? I have both just wondering where to look. If this is the good order I may do a write up on it so it can go in the HOW.

Good order. But, move 15 min idle up to step 3.

When you set the TPS,
1. the bike must be hot and idling to check it.
2. Then you have to shut off the engine,
3. turn the ignition back on and set the TPS reading the voltage with TuneECU (or just a voltmeter),
4. turn the ignition back off (so the ECU will reset),
5. ignition back on and start the bike again to check.
And repeat as many times as needed to reach the correct value.

It is almost impossible to sync the throttle bodies with TuneECU. You need a dual electronic vacuum gage of some type. And, you may need to sync throttle bodies through out this procedure.

Ok. Make sense since the bike needs to warm and it will change after the reset.

When looking at the cylinder pressures in TuneECU they are not exactly the same. But not light years different. How much variation is acceptable?

Also, last night I increased the idle RPM in the two higher temp fields in an attempt to keep the bike from dying while riding it. But it seems to only have had effect when the bike is in neutral and drops significantly when in gear. Would you suggest I set them back to where you had them and try the working on the list we've established before tinkering with the idle RPM?

I use the TwinMax electronic manometer. About $90 everywhere. Very accurate. You can rev the motor and not worry about sucking fluid in. It also helps to see if your mixture tune is balanced.

Setting the TPS will fix the idle issue. Don't change the settings in the Map.

Throttle body balance is rarely off very much. Mostly, this is effected by the valve clearances. I've seen this far off, where you can hear it when the bike is running. Then I checked the valves and several were out of spec. After adjusting the valves, the throttle sync was perfect.

Looking at the numbers in TuneECU to balance the throttle bodies is useless. I've compared it to the electronic gage and found them to be random and continually changing. The sample rate in TuneECU is too slow.

With the electric vacuum gage, you can slowly rev the motor and watch the balance. If the balance changes with rpm, you probably have the fuel mix off in your tune.

Aw man. If I need to start adjusting things in the tune I'm going to need to really do some reading and asking of more questions.

I will say that the bike runs 100 times better at cruising speeds. Way smoother and throttle response is far better. If all it takes is the TPS adjustment then I'm game. I've already gone this far.

To do for my bike then is to:

1. Set idle back to original
2. reset adaptions
3. 15 min idle
4. adjust TPS

Zuber, Thanks again for all this info. Your #3 map has made my 2007 990 so much better.

A couple of things I've thought of.

Tuning an engine is not exactly a step wise process. It's kind of like you spiral in on the perfect tune. Throttle balance will change the idle that changes the TPS voltage that will change the ignition advance that changes the tune, etc.... So, you have to go back and check previous settings several times.

Also, remember when you down load a new map it will reset adaptations, so it saves a step.

The 15 minute idle is needed if you make a drastic change to the tune. It allows the bike to run pretty good right away, so the KTM customer rides away happy. If you are just making minor changes, I've found it's not really needed. Just ride it. Even if you do the reset/idle, the bike won't be fully self-adjusted until about three heat cycles and 100 miles or more. This is why some tunes will seem to revert back to bad behavior after a while.

Letting it idle without doing a reset does nothing. Just ride it.

Dang man I like the way that you describe the tuning process.

I was working on pulling the left side tank off (which I realize now was the wrong side) two days ago and while doing so the petcock caught on the crash bar and when I gave it a little umph the top of it came smooth off. Dumping a large amount of gasoline onto the garage floor. Only way to effectively remedy the problem quickly was to pull the crash bar while holding my finger over the hole I had created. Then I was able to yank the tank quickly and take it outside to drain the rest of the gas into a gas can. All while it was still leaking everywhere. Was a great time. Highly suggest everyone give it a go.

Replacement is in route and will arrive today. I'll find some time this weekend to remedy the tank and TPS. Then go from there.

Been there. Swimming in gas waiting for a spark.

Those little petcocks are one of the oldest part designs on the bike. I think they go back to 1996. Earlier ones were thinner and more fragile than the latest.

Got the old girl back up in running shape yesterday. As of this morning I was able ride it without an issue. Bike was super smooth on the highway on my way into work and I can't believe how much of an improvement it is over what I had before. I went down the list and covered the following:

1. Download Zuber 3 tune with O2's turned on (going to try and keep them on for max mpg)
2. Adjust throttle cable
3. 15 min idle
4. Synched the throttle bodies while it was running
5. Set TPS at 0.60

I know you recommended I use a proper balancing meter but I decided to give it a go using TuneECU. Mostly because I didn't have time to find my motion pro one and didn't really want to spend money nor would I have had it in time to work on it yesterday. The cylinders were about 8 in. off when it wasn't running and got farther away when idling so I just dialed it back to a steady 6-10 in. and it seems to have helped. I drilled the hole in the air box for the TPS adjustment and it couldn't have been easier. Used TuneECU for this as well.

I was able to use my service manual for the first time and it was nice to have handy. My wife was poking fun while watching me in the garage because I was using two laptops and not really wrenching on the bike so it looked like I wasn't even fixing anything.

Gentlemen,

I’m looking for a tune for an 07 with Rottweiler intake, SAS delete, and an akra 2-2. Currently running the akra tune and it is certainly rich as has been said in this thread. From what I’ve gathered, @Zuber doesn’t recommend his tunes with the Rottweiler intake? @rossguzzi sounded like he had a very similar setup to me but I couldn’t find any info on the tune he was running. Does anyone have any information that may help?

Have you tried comparing the Zuber 1 map to the Akro and split the difference in the fueling? There is at least one map similar to your setup IIRC on the TuneECU site. Could try that one too. Or try the Hooligan for a bit.

I have not. I just got the bike recently and am just getting my toes wet with the tuning. I will start there and give it a shot. Not too knowledgeable on the use of the program yet but I’ll give it a shot.

In my opinion start with the low hanging fruit like I did. Once you've done that try a different tune.

Adventure808 i have very similar set up, I am running Zubers ignition maps, and blended stock fuel to Akro fuel tables, F-l switch points modified, o2 on. I just completed 1200 miles with 36-40 mpg, average speed ~80 with visits over 120. I will try to the map up here tomorrow.

2008 990a.
I've tried Z3 map and thought it was an improvement, but seemed a little too lean. This weekend, I took a ride on the Z1 map and I really like it.
I still have a few minor nagging concerns though...

• Fuel economy is just as bad as before trying the Zuber maps and nothing seems to have changed... I'm lucky if I get North of 30mpg.
• Fueling still seems to 'hunt' around when cruising (steady throttle) around 4,000 rpm.

I'm stock, Smog removed and running Rottweiler dongles.
Everything else feels good with Z1 map. Any thoughts on issues above?