390 Adventure owners thread

That 800 XC is an awesome bike! You are right though, the lighter weight of the 390 Adventure makes it a joy to move around.
There are a couple of guys riding the KTM 390 Adventure who are in the 6' 2" to 6' 5" range. Might be worth doing a search for "tall rider" in this thread to see what they've done.
What I have found (5' 10" 32" inseam) is the chassis is very short. So it's not just seat height, bar height, peg height, it's also a cramped feeling towards the bars when turning the bars. To "open up the cockpit" I reduced the sweep on the bars, more to a motocross style, and raised the bars. This really helped open up my shoulders and chest, so I sit correctly on the bike. Much more comfortable now.

A good looking windscreen is going to be an issue if you like to sit in a protected "bubble" of air. If you are OK with your full neck and head in the wind the Givi 7710D does a great job of putting a laminar flow around you. It is also stylish. There is a YouTube video of a guy using this screen with a clip on visor for long freeway travels. That seems pretty reasonable.

One other thing to consider is speeds you normally travel. The 390 Adventure will travel all day at speeds up to about 120 Kph. But fuel mileage drops off about 25% at speeds above 100 Kph (from around 28 L/K to about 21 L/K). Even at that, it's still pretty exceptional fuel mileage.
Finally, the 390 Engine doesn't have a lot of torque down low. It really starts to come on about 6K rpms. A bit similar to the 800 XC, but at a subdued power rating. Basically in that 90-100 kph range it will require a downshift to get decent acceleration. The Quickshifter works well, and makes it fun to "stir the gearbox".

Good luck with your choice!

Now that is freakin' awesome!
I've spent time working in the North East, and came to the conclusion that for a motorcycle rider, there is no such thing as too much lighting.
Beautiful work to get the top box lights installed so smoothly with the compound curves.
Like your custom build electronics as well.
It's going to be a great year to ride!

I looked through the manual at this as well, and thought... "Who are they trying to kid?". lol
A good video would be a huge help to us, and probably to the Duke guys & gals as well.
Thanks for considering this!

I picked up one of those Carabiner helmet locks with the braided cable. This allows locking the helmet and jacket (running the cable through a sleeve). On hot days, having the helmet covered under the jacket keeps it cooler.
So I'm not such a hot head.
Still working on the "knucklehead" part.

Consequences of breaking the "Basic Speed Rule":

Easter was a beautiful day in the Uintah Basin, so I snuck out for a short ride. Wanted to see how far up the mountain I could get before running into snow.
Thought I was being fairly conservative on a muddy forest service road, but there is a lot of clay in the soil here, and I hit a patch of half frozen muck at about 30mph that was hard based snot mixed with truck tire ruts. Ended up cross rutted and high sided the bike a bit under 30mph.
(have I mentioned I'm allergic to mud? )
Bike survived incredibly well. All that happened to me is a sprained ankle, and a bruised ego (hard not to damage something the size of Alaska... lol)
For 400 lbs of motorcycle that there wasn't more damage is pretty darned cool.
The other positive is it was my first opportunity to lift the bike off the ground. In slick mud with a damaged ankle it was still a piece of cake. After assessing myself and the bike, I picked it up just like I would a dirt bike. None of this back to the bike ADV stuff. Just grabbed the handle bar & passenger grab handle, and picked it up. I'm not a big guy so this was a very pleasant surprise, and gives me confidence to do even dumber stuff in the future...

Bike damage limited to:
* Twisted the forks in the triple clamps so it steers to the left.
* Scraped up the case savers a little
* Ripped the end off the brake saver & bent lever slightly (May do a loop with ferule at the lever and skid plate for the replacement)
* Broke the left side headlight trim (strange as the bike went down on the right side). Pretty sure I can repair this part.
* Scratched up the front edge of the muffler a bit.

Will give the ankle a couple of days rest then get the bike sorted, because Spring may be here... for real this time.

Happy Trails Y'all!

Glad to hear it wasn't any worse than a sprained ankle, Scott!

Hey man, glad no serious damage to you or the bike- but way to go doing the crash testing for us all!

I know my impressions of the 390 so far just adding a few accessories is that it is not NEARLY as 'hardened' as my 990 (that thing has endured some serious abuse) and there's quite a bit of plastic that's probably going to go into some ditch or another sooner or later. Actually, when I had the headlight nacelle cracked the other day (to wire the zumo in) and those side trim pieces off, I seriously considered just leaving them off anyhow.

Rest that ankle and heal up, the good weather is finally here!

Glad you didn't get completely smashed up Sheath!
I've low sided the bike on gravel a couple times now. The problem is it is so fun to corner in the gravel gutter and sometimes there is loose marbles you don't see.
Take it easy now so you can ride later.

/rant/
I think there definitely IS such a thing as too much lighting. You want enough light to be noticed/conspicuous, but not enough to blind. I know many riders have a "can you see me NOW, m-f'er!?!?" attitude, but I don't think blinding oncoming traffic increases safety. It can definitely be too bright that the car coming at you can't even tell if he's in his lane anymore because of the bike coming at him with lights a-blazin'.

I'm fairly libertarian-leaning, but vehicle lighting is something I think needs to be regulated. With so many aftermarket parts, people can load up their vehicles with lights without consequences. Like those guys, often in pickup trucks, who use offroad light bars on their front brush bars as 'driving lights.' Those LEDs are the same kind of LEDs that are used for billboards, and have no directional targeting. They just spread light in a 140° cone. FMVSS rules make sure manufacturers keep the lighting primarily to the road ahead, and often offset a bit to the right shoulder.
/endrant/

Those of you considering auxiliary lighting for the 390, Baja Designs makes a light kit with 2 lights, wiring harness, on--off switch, and mounting bracket. It is an excellent, high output kit, USA made, and priced accordingly. Fully adjustable beam side to side and top to bottom. I had the same kit on my Africa Twin, makes a huge difference riding in the desert at night in the middle of nowhere (4 corners area), like riding on a football field ;^).

The link below says 790, but it is also for the 390

https://www.bajadesigns.com/product...790-adventure-r/?page=1&vid=152285&sku=387001

Okay, but tell us how you really feel.

BTW: Vehicle lighting is very regulated. As an example, it's why our bikes have incandescent turn signals instead of LED.
It sounds like what is lacking in your neck of the woods is enforcement. That can be as simple as lobbying your local troopers (city, county, state). Gather enough like minded people in your area, and effect change.

Do you think the changes @Nomadventure has done create a dangerous situation for others, or do they positively affect his visibility?
From what I see (and my comment reflects), everything he has done affects his ability to be seen without negatively impacting others.

Lighting is regulated on OE as-delivered-new vehicles. After that, you're only relying on a trooper's 'calibrated' eye. (?)

The extra turn signals and brake lights, no. I was referring to the obnoxiously bright 'fog lights' that some folks install.

A LEO doesn't need calibrated eyes, at least ours don't.
There are very specific criteria for the use and mounting of additional lighting. If you are struggling with issues of misuse in your area, you probably aren't the only one.
Get involved to get it solved.

Sorry to hear that man! But glad you didn't break anything other than a few bike parts! Hope you'll be back in the saddle in no time!

Thank you for sharing your mods; lights are definitely an interesting add. I too have the McCruise installed on my bike; a must for me. Also, as I ride mostly street I added a TRex center stand which makes chain maintenance easy.

Looking at a 2020 390 Adv with 15k, 15k service completed, bike is mint and priced at $4,199. Need thoughts on the miles and how this bike will (should) hold up plus anything specific to look for. I'm not concerned about miles assuming a bike has been well maintained. I've had BMWs with 75k plus miles and no issues. Thanks in advance!

Well, the engine is out, I've done some careful measuring of the clearance and I do indeed need to swap out some shims. My exhaust is at .15mm both sides (which is in spec (.15 to .20mm), but barely, I"m going to move that to .175mm. The intake is .102 on the left valve and .064mm on the right. Spec is .10 to .15mm. I could have just closed up the valve cover and re-installed the engine if it wasn't for the right-side intake valve. All the rest are at the tight end of in spec. I tried like crazy to get an in-spec reading for that valve--nope, not happening.
I'd set the valves at the loose end of the spec since shimmed valves rarely get looser unless there's something really nasty happening in the engine. But I probably won't have to do this again for a very long time. So 0.175mm for the exhaust and 0.125 for the intake is my goal. I don't have a shim set handy. I have to drive 40 miles round trip to get the shims, so I'll probably buy a shim kit instead of just the individual shims. I think the kit is about 85 bucks and individual shims are $7. I"ll probably never use them again, but if I'd bought the kit when I was at the shop last time the bike would be back together already.
My homemade engine jack mount works shockingly well. The motor is stable on the jack, to the point that I left it on the jack to do the work of pulling the cams and shims. As you can see I used the mounting frame for the original bash plate and screwed it to the jack lifting pad with two countersunk 6mm screws. One screw goes into one of the bash plate mounting nutserts, and one I just drilled through the plate and added a nut. The bash plate frame then gets screwed to the motor as normal. I REALLY didn't expect it to work this well, I figured it would be wobbly, and it is a little bit, but the engine is secure, and the jack lowered it out of the frame without drama, and with just me working on it.

I also found some loose and even one missing bolt in some hard to reach areas. specifically the brackets attached to the two front engine braces (the Y-shaped structures). And the big rear engine mount bolt has a bit of a bend. Enough to make the left footpeg bob up and down when I turn it. While the motor is out I'm going to clean up some of the wiring I modified to install the Powertronics. I'll also goop up all the connectors with some dialectric grease. I'm tempted to strip the frame and paint it orange, but no, not going to happen.

Being the voyeur that I am, I’m really disappointed you covered up her top end ! How modest of you.

BWAAHAHAAHAAHAHAAA!!! Here comes the "I'll show you mine if you show me yours" posts!!!