There were two kickers made. The longer one, 93 and earlier (?), and the shorter one 94+. The DR does not need much force to kick start it. Some claim they can do it with their hand. However you do need the full stroke and decent speed, this is where the short lever comes in.
Thanks but no thanks, I bought the spring guide already. I am not looking for new barrel(maybe in a few years). Oh if someone has an extra header heat shield PM me. The 14D kick start lever looks like it is about 2 inches longer then the street type 15D. Probably weighs a pound more as well
I opened the clutch cover. Everything looks great and I think I can reuse the gasket. I have an extra too. The bolts holding it on were perfect so I don't think this has been opened before. I have to wait a few days for the last part. I took the six clutch springs off and they seemed to have a white buildup on them. It is probably nothing but I thought I would mention it. The clutch basket looks great, no groove lines from the plates yet.
If anybody has an extra header heat shield PM me. Its ok if its rusty i have a wire brush and black spraypaint
Bikebandit.com still has not sent my parts that I ordered on the 19th because they do not have a tiny washer in stock. I can't cancel my order or add another part to the order either. They should tell you when they don't have something in stock before you order. Until then I might make a small windshield out of a piece of thick plexiglass I found by the side of a road.
I seem to remember having white paint on my clutch springs. Many things on OEM site say that they are on back order and will take 5-6 days before shipping. The truth is that these parts are discontinued and you will be on forever HOLD for your parts. Call or get someone on live talk and either cancel the missing parts or have them ship the in stock items in your order and the missing parts later. I have been using RockymountainATV.com for my OEM Suzuki parts. They are pretty good about not doing this to you. In fact my last order had the exact situation. They did not hold up my order at all.
I spoke one day too soon. Bikebandit.com parts shipped today. It was probably because of Xmas. I got a second battery box off of ebay for 9$ - I have a crazy idea worth trying. 2014 is the first year on record that Anchorage did not get below zero degrees. The coldest it has been this winter is 15. Only 2 inches of melting snow. I didn't have to stop mountain biking this year until mid-November.
I pushed the gear shifter down by accident and the spring popped out. How do I put it back? I think the grey end goes to the right of the black end? I think the shifter and frame nub both go in the middleof the spring...I will figure it out tomorrow. I put all the kick starter parts on. I will post a list of prices and weights.
The guess I made above is correct FYI. I used 2 flat head screwdrivers that were thin and it wasn't very hard.
The spring on the gear shift lever goes on how I described in the above post fyi. Ten degrees in the garage so I had to heat it up with the wood stove for a few hours first. I put my kick start parts on today and it went great (I didn't break anything). I have the longer kick lever so it is really easy for me. An 80 pound kid could kick it. I cleaned the kicker lever too much and now it likes to flop around. I need to shove some wet dirt in it to make it work properly=P Here are ALL of the parts that you need. Anything else is just extras or something. No need for decompression cable stuff. You might want a new clutch gasket if yours rips, the cost is 10+5 ship. I bought one but didn't need it Kick start Lever - 30$, more like 60$ on ebay Kick start gear - 20$ due to bolt broken off in it. More like 60$ on ebay Idle gear - I got a great deal for a whole transmission for 40+17$ ship. You should put up a WTB, ask 25ish or buy new for 40ish Little Parts - cost me 34$ Total for me = 130$ but that includes all the engine transmission gears and good deals and stuff. The time it takes is 40% opening it up, 20% installation, 40% closing it. For you weight watchers, I weighed the parts before I put them in. Lever (longer dirt 14D, I think it is the 90-93 lever) - 667 grams. I later weighed a shorter, 93+ to be 580 grams Kick start gear assembly - 587 grams Idle Gear - 235 grams Big Spring - 66 grams little parts - 35 grams Parts removed - -27 grams for plastic plug and a metal disc on the idle gear Total added weight - 1,563 grams or 3.45 pounds. Shorter kick start lever is 1,476 grams, or 3.25 pounds. It's worth it to me. No more worrying about draining my battery in the mud. The weight is low on the bike too. Have a smooth installation!
Cool upgrade...I'd like to do the same to mine some day. Having a backup to the magic button is always a good idea if you ride in the boonies. FYI...either the 94+ or 95+ 350 models got automatic decompression so it makes sense that you don't need the decomp cable. However earlier models do need it...I think I have seen reports of broken cases due to people kicking the bike without decompression.
How is it to start via kick. How does one find the "top of the stroke" without the de-comp lever. I think I have all the parts (donor 90 S makes it easier to collect), and will start this project sometime this winter (along whit the 5 million other ones) .
Its really easy. All I did was push the lever past the tough spot then lift it and kick. It took me one minute to figure it out. I can get mine started in 20 seconds and there is no kick back recoil if you don't kick hard enough. You don't need much force because of the auto-decompression.
+1 on this. Notice he says, "push". Not "kick" through the tough spot. The only time I use the decomp lever is to clear the cylinder when the mixture is off during a hot start.
Push is right. Here is the video of the first time I kick started it. I had it idle for half a minute to warm it first. Lever wasn't stiff and I didn't know what I was doing at all but it didn't take long to get it going. I made the video so that if something snapped I could ask you guys how bad it was! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APTXtaQQWSI
My DR350SE has a cush rear wheel and I want fewer rear teeth but the smallest sprocket I can find is a 41T. The non-cush wheel has down to 38T and they are easy to find but will not fit. I don't want to use a 16 tooth front gear because I like my case saver and I don't want to grind/remove it. This sounds like a challenge! Not only that, I am not going with a 38T now. I shall install a 37T just because I can! I figured out how to do this by using 4 .5mm spacers, an ATV sprocket, and power tools. I'll post in a few weeks when I get my sprocket in the mail because shipping to alaska takes forever!
I have 13t and 15t sprockets so I can swap for trails quickly. I might need a 12t too even tho it wears chains a bit faster. The ATV sprocket I will use comes in 36t, 37t, and 38t so if someone wants to copy me they might be able to use the other sizes. I think the 36t will touch the hub bolts so you might need to do some grinding for that one. It is a JTR1760 for a LTR450 or LTZ400. There are used 36, 37 and 38 on ebay for 11 shipped if anybody wants to cheaply give it a try. Looking at the pics side by side might give you an idea of what I'm thinking.
I got my 11$ sprocket in. Looks like 95% life left in it. I used a little bit of sandpaper to smooth some tooth bumps. I cant take my sprocket off my bike right now or else I would use spray paint to place the holes on my sprocket. I will measure the holes instead. The clear 156mm stick is where the center of the bolt holes will go. The white arrow is 113mm and I need to grind it back to 136mm. The longer inner diameter is 137mm so I might just grind it back to 137mm and wrap a half a mm metal strip around the whole hub as a spacer. How thick is a soda can? I'll just stack 30 soda can bits together, measure, and divide by 30.
I drilled the holes out and it was very easy. It took me under a minute with a 18 volt hand drill for each one and I didn't even have to press hard or oil the drill bit. I printed a 156mm circle with 6 spokes, taped it in the middle and drilled pilot holes. 8mm is .315 inches and 1/8 inch is .3175 so it is easy to find the right size drill bit for the holes. I used a V type tip so it would follow the pilot. All I have to do now is put a 45 degree V shape on the holes as the bolts are 2x as wide at the top. And grind the inner diameter to 156mm. Project almost done! Does anybody really want to buy one? I am good at making this now and I can't be the only guy who wants one of these. This looks better then I expected. It's not a half-assed part! More like 1/4 assed or less. I can't install this until spring so no test runs for awhile.
