Someone asked if the chain will his the bolt heads... It will be really close. 187.19mm sprocket(chain center to chain center) -(10.16mm chain) -(16mm bolt head) -156mm bolt spacing equals 5.03mm! Math is easy when you are using it for practical reasons(took me 2 min to do). That means there is 2.515mm gap between the chain and bolt. This is why I didn't go with the 36T, it would have been a (182.11-187.19)+5.03 = -.05mm/2 gap or a -1/40th mm gap between bolt and chain. The bolt head looks a bit under 16mm (15.8ish) tho so it might work with a drill press for precision. I just eyeballed where I taped the paper circle and I am sure I didn't drill the holes perfectly either so the 2.51mm gap is good to have. I might have to grind a mm or two off 1 or 2 bolt head sides facing the chain but that's easy once i put it on. I bought a new(used) chain off ebay for 9$ shipped and it arrives tomorrow so i will check clearance then. This is my most in-depth answer ever=P
I bought a new 14T sprocket for 2$ shipped. I also got a 112 link used chain for 9$ shipped. I washed it with dish soap and a scrubbing pad, washed it in vinegar overnight and cleaned it with an old toothbrush, then boiled it in water and put it on the wood stove to dry. Super clean and it should last a lot longer without the powdered metal and sand grinding away in the links. Not a single stiff link and it moves like a rope. It is a good clean spare chain. I also got these KTM hand guards for 20$. They are great but are all plastic so I bought these black aluminum guards for 15$. I think I will cut the inner ends off of the orange guards and then bolt them to the black bars. They have the same curve so I think I can get it to fit with not much work
This is a small gap, but it's enough. I noticed that when I put the bolt between the teeth(2nd pic) I can get an extra few millimeters. I can't do this with a 37T because each bolt has non-integer spacing. The 36 tooth has 6 teeth between each of the 6 bolts, so I can center the bolts between the teeth and get a few extra mm! I will probably make a "36T alaska1wd" this summer if I get bored and the 37T works as well as i think it will. Do note you will have to take a few links out of your chain (108?) if you do this. Happy highway cruising!
Electric start dr350se are blue and kick start dr350 are yellow. I added a kick start to mine so I will use a blue and a yellow hand guard. 9$ on ebay and it has no damage. I will switch between the two sets of hand guards sometimes. These yellow or blue ones keep the wind and branches off your hands but aren't as strong or safe as the aluminum bars. I want to mount the orange ktm guards on the black aluminum bars but my bike is in storage.
So I finally ordered a kicker for the kickstart parts on ebay you linked a while back. It is definitely a short kicker, but the details for which years the short one was available for doesn't match what you or MrPulldown stated. This part came off a '93 DR350S. The part number is hard to make out due to the casting, but it looks like 14D1C-E... EDIT: Looking at the online parts fiche for a '93 DR350S it appears there were two kickstart options; 14D10 and 14D11...the casting of the part number is pretty poor, but it looks like I have the 14D10.
Yours is the short (better) one. I can tell just by looking at it. When you do the install you should change the thrust washers, so add them to the little parts order if you haven't bought that yet
I already have them...my clutch was dragging anyway so I ordered new thrust washers and the other parts you recommended (seal and washer). I may need to sand a little off the backof the clutch basket to get it to stop dragging. Apparently it is a pretty common problem.
Rake a rough file across it a few times before you sand it, and use the lines to visually tell how much you remove. You only need to remove a few thousandths of an inch, but this is super hard metal and it takes a long time to sand/file away at it. I bought an ebay clutch basket for 20$ shipped! It blew the throw-out bearing which caused a bit of cosmetic damage. The lower left disc has some damage in the center from this which could cause another bearing throw so I will throw this part away. The basket has 62 tooth 2.82 primary reduction instead of my original 64 tooth 3.2 reduction basket. This will lower my RPM by 11.95%. I wish I noticed this upgrade before I made my own 37T rear sprocket. This should lower my RPM at 65MPH from 6600RPM to 5810RPM. In my box of misc. gears I found a 22T primary gear, even though the gears are from a 1990 DR350 and people on the DR350 page say only the DR250S 90-92or93 has the 22T gear. I suspect that the 22/62 combo might be on more types and ages of the 250/350 because my ebay searches found 22T gears and 62T baskets listed as DR350 and DR250 1990-1992. Count the teeth on the baskets, mine was listed as a 1992 DR350. 12% lower RPM for 20$ is great, and now I have most of a spare clutch basket and plates, springs, clutch lever, ect. If you want to do this upgrade(actually a downgrade lol) you can get a DR250S clutch basket for 40ish shipped and a 22T gear for 10-15ish shipped. This is an upgrade more people should do instead of removing the case saver for the 16T. I don't want my pants/foot/shoelace to get sucked into the chain/sprocket if my bike traps my leg when I fall. Lower left disc had its center damaged by the throwout bearing breaking. I will throw it away. The lower right disc is a good backup if I ever overtighten a clutch spring and snap one of those rods. There is a little bit of cosmetic damage on the basket here, so I filed the bumps smooth just in case and washed all the parts with rubbing alchohol and paper towels. I also Q-tipped the clutch spring holes so I can blue loctite the spring bolts instead of over-tightening them and breaking something Its raining here is Alaska and there are 2 inches of snow left so spring should come early this year and I can get to riding! =]
Sounds like a good setup for trips requiring highway travel...I'm actually going the other direction 14/44 sprockets with a 15 CS backup if needed. My DR350 is primarily going to be used off-road at dual-sport and enduro events. I have a DR650 for trips that require more pavement and higher speeds.
I want to add a switch to turn all the lights off so it kick starts easier. Generating all that electrical power makes the kick a lot harder. It is very hard to kick start while cold, but I have only kick started it a few times(warm) so I probably don't have the kick motion down yet. I think an on/off will be useful if I want to charge my phone or something with the bike off, which would usually have the headlight on and draining power 30 times faster then the phone charger. I think the key positions are OFF,ON,Accessory which also powers head/taillight. Anyone add an on/off switch to the headlight and taillight? I was also thinking of adding a...spark plug short circuit button? whatever that is called. I like using it most on offroad downhills for smooth breaking on bumpy trails. It helps me stay balanced when the back tire is skipping when I don't have to balance myself on the peg and break lever as much. I was thinking of putting some kind of button on but I don't know which hand side would feel better. I am thinking left hand because there is only a clutch lever there but the throttle and brake for the right. I might put it right next to the horn...or even add a second horn switch or something. I just drilled and tapped an 8mm hole in the handlebar ends. I will put some pics up of my hand guards and a front fender that doesn't shake in the wind.
unless i'm mistaken, the ignition circuit is independent of the lighting circuit the button you speak of could be a manual compression release
I noticed that my battery can barely turn the engine over after a few days of sitting. I think there must be a short somewhere leaking power but I have no clue where to look. I have a cool ON/OFF switch that I will wire to the battery and mount it somewhere on the dash. I will just turn the switch off when I park. I got a front fender for free - I was going to buy it from a guy on craigslist but he kind of bailed so he gave it to me for free the next day. Cool dude. I drilled and tapped the handlebars and mounted the black bars and put the plastic guards over them. It took over 2 hours to do this and involved a lot of filing but it worked out really well. The front fender only took like 20 minutes to mount. This fender shouldn't be as much of an air scoop as the stock fender was. I plan to add a kill button (non-click) by my left hand. I will also add a dark switch to make kick starting easier and so that I can park and charge my cell phone, camera, gps, ect without the head/taillights killing the battery. I like this three-tone look myself... I think the orange and blue go together really well. I can't wait until summer =] I might buy a second red 1.5L bottle for the back rack and spray the bottles KTM orange. I don't have a clue where to buy KTM orange spraypaint but I might look for it this summer
I added a windshield that came off a harley softtail. Harley windows are usually too big and wide but this one seems like a good shape and size to me. I had to use some novus polish and some elbow grease but it was free. I got the cheapest mounting brackets off ebay for 15$ and I made 2 mounting brackets to fit the lower two holes that the plastic shroud attached to. I only had to drill 2 holes (middle pair). 6 attachment points will make the windshield more stable, and I can unmount it in about a minute. All that is left is to cut some half circles so I can put the turn signals back on. I will adjust the angle later. Next up I will make a heat shield for the header that also holds the kick lever in place.
I bought a used cylinder and piston jug for 32$ shipped. I want to go big bore someday and the deal was too good to pass up. My cylinder and piston are almost new so I won't mess with them. I put the turn signals back on and filed some notches in the windshield so that they fit and don't touch. I made a heat shield for the header out of some thin metal folded on half and I rounded with a grinding disc so it doesn't snag pantlegs. I will add a strip of header wrap in between to keep the outer half cool and hi-heat silicone the whole rim. I think I am about done with the upgrades for a while.
I took my clutch cover off and put some blue loctite on the shift drum bolt threads and tightened it to spec. No more worrying about that. I tightened my clutch bolt to about 35 lbf and the inner basket spins freely like it should so I won't have to clearance my basket. I checked for friction at 45ish as well and no problem there. The kick start gears and the case around that area had white oil film gunk even tho it has only been a tank of gas since I installed the kick start parts. This white crud comes from water getting in the engine. Water was coming in from the clutch lever hole on the clutch cover. That little gasket somehow had a tiny piece ripped out of it and the water got in there when I sprayed the bike clean with the garden hose. I cleaned the white stuff off with paper towels. Then I cleaned the area with rubbing alcohol and used a paper clip to put some gasket maker in the ripped spot. I have not heard of this problem before so I am really happy I opened it up when I did. I will ride it for an hour and then change the oil and filter.
That little clutch lever gasket is very easy to replace. Might even be able to do it with the cover on the and pinon gear in place. Pick out the old and drive in a new.
Thanks, I thought that piece would be hard to get out of the case. New one is under 3$ on bikebandit and if you ever see any white stuff in your case you should get a new one too. I'll order one with some extra thrust washers (can never have too many of those!). I have never heard if this problem before. It had about a beer bottle cap of white crud all over the kick start gear and it took a while to clean. That was from just one good washing with a hose. If I didn't open it up when I did it could have led to extra wear or something later on. I am not sure if normal or synthetic oil is better so I'm going to look that up.
At 65 MPH I run about 6900 RPM with 15/42 gearing. I bought a new JTR1760 36T for 17$. Flip back to page 3 and you can see what I have in mind. 6900*(36/42) is 5900 RPM. 14.3% lower RPM. I know I can drill the holes accurately but I am worried about the chain rubbing on the chain guide differently due to the lower sprocket radius. Maybe it will rub a bit more and I will swap the plastic guide more often. I will post in a few weeks when I get it drilled and installed. I am thinking about wiring the running light power cord to a usb charger for stuff. Or I could wire something straight to the battery. Time for googling, voltage regulators, and math.
I filled in my skid plate hole with a power outlet metal plate. I ground it to shape and drilled 2 holes to mount it and put JB weld where they meet so it doesn't buzz with the RPM. I also found out that my bike doesn't leak electricity; it was the battery after all. I unplugged the battery for a week, tried to start it, and it barely turned over. It is actually good news because at least the bike has no problems. I also installed a new clutch lever gasket. The old one was cracked and stuck to the case and it took me almost an hour to pick out the tiny bits of old gasket with a sharpened paper clip.
I drilled my first pilot 1 tooth off (don't drink and drill!) so 2 of the holes are close to the 2 originals but it didn't matter(it looks a bit odd tho ). The 8mm bolts have 16mm heads. I bought more bolts then ground the heads back to 12.7mm so I now have a 2.7mm gap with the chain. It was not really needed but the only tool I had to drill a V was 12.7mm(.5inch) so I went with it. It feels smooth on the road and it dropped my RPM by 1000 at 65mph. It is a 350 mile ride to Fairbanks and I am heading up there a few times this summer so it is good that I don't have to run it at 7000RPM for hours. I saved the shortened chain bit and have 2 masterlinks so I can easily swap front sprockets measurement scratches, pilot hole, and circle from pressing down with the drill Be sure to clean your chain. I saw chain bits and a skid mark on a road a few days ago...
