Husaberg 70 Degree Owners Thread!

Ready for a week in Colorado.

Any restriction to flow with these?

This is a huge misconception about oil filters: that the type of filter will affect flow.
A change in filter type will not change oil flow at all (forgetting about the bypass valve and potential out-of-design operating conditions for the moment). Oil pumps are positive displacement pumps; they always pump the same amount of oil at a given operating speed, regardless of changes in system pressure.

Now, what will happen with a more restrictive filter is the oil pump must perform more work on the oil to balance increased pressure drop across the filter. Which means extra parasitic load on the engine, and more heat tranferred into the oil.

EEEK! Warning! Oil discussion on ADV!!!

But, add to this discussion:
Most engines use a gear type pump that is not super efficient ( < positive displacement ) and fine filters trap particles quickly and clog up. Restricting the flow at the filter media, or anywhere else for that matter, will result in a higher pressure at the pump and cause bypass in the pump. This bypassing and the pump regurgitating oil generates a lot of heat. The hotter oil will, due to reduced viscosity, cause more bypass in the pump.

The ideal situation would be to have a GIANT super fine filter that would not clog up for many hours. But in a motorcycle engine there is no room for a big filter.

Everything is a trade off. Use a screen filter and get the dirt out of the engine oil by changing the oil or use a fine filter and change it often to avoid clogging.

Remember that when a fine filter clogs up, a filter bypass valve opens and there is no filtering of the oil. At least with a screen filter the big stuff ( > 20 micron ) will always be trapped.

There's no bypass, if a filter or screen plugs up, you're hosed. After replacing my clutch fibers the screen in the sump clogged up with fibers, it only takes a blob the size of your pinky fingernail. What happened was a loss of pressure to the top end, and my valve rockers self-welded to their shafts. (In fact it happened twice before I figured out what was happening).

There is an oil pressure regulator valve to limit pressure on the pump, but all that valve does is spill it right back into the sump. It is the limiting factor on how hard the pump pushes, not the condition of the filter. The regulator simply keeps pressure at a certain psi (if the revs are high enough). The oil filter is not supposed to be the bottleneck of the system (oil pressure should be the same on both sides of it) but if it became constricted enough then pressure downtream from it would drop.

Has anyone got a copy of the install instructions for the 70 deg tank I could acquire?

Ta.

How desperate are you Al?
Pretty sure I've got a copy of the destructions at home, just not there for a week.

Only just removed tank off my 570, getting good at taking it off and re-fitting it.
Had to bend/re-shape the mounting plates during initial fit-up and drill a few holes for cable ties to secure the fuel hose(s)

PM if you've got any questions.

Cheers Jak

Cruz was kind enough to give me a 70 deg tank.

It has a couple of pulled inserts. I intend at this stage to use a couple of nutserts to repair along with a product by 3M which is the only product I could find to repair cross linked polyethylene. 3M DP8005. I'll apply the 3M then insert an aluminium nutsert. Fingers crossed. I have the epoxy etc, just waiting for the $19 applicator to arrive from China as the 3M applicator was $150!

I'll keep youz posted.

If you pm me your email, I can hook you up aussieadv

Awesome Jak, to the rescue again!

Not urgent mate. Just want to study in the meantime while I wait for this applicator. I notice there is an addition to the pump mount obviously to connect the tanks? Discussions earlier suggest a Safari tank part otherwise I'll manufacture something.

Jak, Knobbiethrower was kind enough to send one through to me, thanks mate.

Are there any repair manuals available or sites that cover common stuff for the 570?

I've had mine for 2 1/2 weeks now and am quite happy with it. Coming off an XR650R the bike FS has somewhat better road manners =)

Additionally what are some common approaches to improve cooling performance? I ride the bike in Bay Area traffic daily and the bike creeps up to 205-210 pretty rapidly, though it hasn't gone above that.

AKA, bypass valve

70 degree bike are plagued with heat transfer problems. It's because the exhaust run so tight to the fuel tank and shock. Ceramic coating the header is a start. You can also put CV4 under tank and on shock reservoir. If you have any emissions stuff on the bike, get rid of it! Get the EU map. An FMF can will help it breathe better. A JD tuner will also help with lean conditions that cause hotter running bike. Delete thermostat with Samco rad hoses might help too. I'd also run Evans coolant or the like.

OK. But I once thought if my filters got plugged, at least the oil would keep circulating. And it's true the filter itself should have a bypass valve inside it, or be held in place by a spring that can let oil blow past if necessary. But the screens on plugs don't.

Is that bad? The radiator fan switch triggers at 100C which is 212F, and back off at 95C, so it sounds like yours is right there.

The design does superheat the gas tank which is disconcerting. I put a clear breather tube on mine and I can see it bubbling up and out constantly.

For what it worth I've had a Scott's mesh filter in mine for the life of the bike, 33,000 miles. Changed oil on average about every 2k miles. There's numerous postings of mine in the husaberg adventure traveler thread showing oil analysis, not just opinions.

Not saying mesh is better but for me seemed to work well.

But with that said I'm sad to say my berg'a motor finally gave out... connecting rod failure with subsequent damage to piston and sleeve. Top end was fine.
Bike still seemed to run ok but had a loud grinding noise. I should have stopped riding it when the noise developed but I didn't.

Upon inspection 6th gear was also worn and the clutch basket needed replacing too.
The costs were too high to justify fixing the motor along with replacing all the other parts that for the most part were original.

The lost husaberg is being retired.

The good news is lost husaberg v2.0 is coming, I found a 570 with 1400 miles on it for about the same cost as repairs, it even still has oem tires and is like new. [emoji2]

With a few changes in use and less road miles I hope to get 40k miles out of this one.
As sexy as a few of the new bikes are, I still believe the fe570 is the best all around lightweight adventure bike, for me.

A post like this with hard data and actual numbers is woth a million posts of speculation. How many top ends in 33K miles?

Sell me the wiring harness