the DR650 thread

Indeed it is.
When I purchased my first new DR650 in 2007, I was greener than the bottles that you're raising. More importantly, this thread was barely a year old. Trial and error were the order of the day. Now, I'm a veritable expert a little better than I used to be.

Thank you. So, Jenn, I'm a decent mechanic, worked on a bunch of different motors. I took my carb apart, and I didnt' replace those. Never considered it.
ProCycle is really knowledgable, and he says those O-rings can cause bad mileage. The O-rings are about the diameter of a pencil? Maybe smaller?
Note there are two of them. The arrow points to one, but both can cause problems.
And They are special - they need to be fuel rated as they are submerged in gasoline 24x7.

I guess it depends on what kit you get. I got a jet kit that came with jets, needle, idle mixture screw, float bowl bolts and bowl gasket (oring). This did NOT come with float o rings.

He may have just a rebuild kit that does- I don't know.

I had to replace my o rings already(2009 bike)- I noticed some idle issues but didn't pay them much attention. Bike then sat for a while. When I went to start it you would have thought I had a steam engine. And a secondary gas tank with all the fuel in the air box... o rings fixed it right up.

I ride mostly backroads at a sporting but not aggressive pace. I'm...not smooth on the throttle like I was on my street bikes. The torque and tractability make it too fun. My shinko 700 has lasted about 2500 miles, but it's also run two "long-weekend" dirt camping trips.

182lbs starkers. ~205 all suited up.

It seems to run well, but this is my first DR so I don't have any comparison. It doesn't wheelie as easy as my old XT600 used to, but then I'm much less likely to wheelie for fun now than 20 years ago.


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Do you have an aftermarket petcock? leave the stock one on prime?

Yes, aftermarket. I leave it on all day while I am riding then turn it off when the bike is going to sit more than overnight.

The gas got in the airbox just in the time I turned it on, messed around trying to start it, messed around trying to figure out WTF was going on and maybe stared at it in confusion for 5 minutes. Like I said, when mine finally went they went in a big way.

Last weekend I did ~200 miles. I hadn't done the fuel adjustment yet. If I pulled full choke, the bogging would stop. The idle would, like, double though. But if evened ride out.

I installed the adjustment screw, backed it out some, and the bogging at steady throttle seems to have gone. I only did about 15 miles with it though so it may still be there. The stuttering off idle still remains.

Ehm....?

I'm <1000' above sea level. Sometime I travel to ~3000' above sea level. But that is all.

then like PC said, your carb is too lean. put a shim under the needle. If you decide to pull the snorkel, I'd GUESS you need "two" shims.

That's the plan. Just ordered the shims from EGT and an aluminum choke nut thing. The EGT kit will be nice because it has two of each .010", .020", and .030". I can mix and match them to get the bike right.

I am at sea level but and I run 95 octane fuel. I am getting average of 21.5 km per litre (about 50 mpg) with my FCR and these setttings:

• 155 Main Jet
• 40 Pilot Jet
• 85 Pilot Air jet (standard)
• 100 Main Air Jet (standard - fixed)
• 85 Starter Jet
• 35 Leak Jet
• NCVT (Honda) needle on 2.5
• Fuel Screw 2.25 turns out.
• Aftermarket Vaccum Release plate
• Twin air filter

so i am getting ready to do my congent ddc and spring install this week
remove wheel + brakes ect.
loosen upper triple clamp then loosen fork caps then undo pinch bolts
remove forks
remove caps and spring and stock parts
dump out old oil and pump a few times , then rest upside down for awhile
its a 2002 should i be concerned about creating a leak with fork seals?
test fit ddcs and spring and measure
then fill with oil and compress the shock and measure oil to top of fork tube
then drop in ddcs and spring, ect
extend shock and measure the preload 8mm from the top of the fork tube to where?
then i cut the little plastic thing or do they come already figured out for me from congent?
i am a little confused
tia
anything else tip-wise is greatly appreciated

i am also doing brakes and ss lines and some other so stay tuned

Normally I'd ask what year and how many miles. Then I'd recommend that since you have the forks off the bike and apart that you replace the seals and bushings using OEM parts (even if they cost a little more than some cheap crap available on Ebay).

And for entertainment value, that's what I should do.

But since I have compassion for my fellow DR rider, I won't.

DisTech shows us how to measure 1/2" preload for the Emulators he installed. Change this to 8mm and there ya go. Cogent tries to prefit the spacers, so if they're close, leave 'em alone.

Sorry for hijacking this response, but Kezza, I see some type of sealant on the valve cover seam. Is that something you put on from the exterior to stop oil seepage? Did you just smear it over the seam? I have a slight leak that comes and goes from near that same area. Wondering if I could just smear some high temp silicone there to stop it?

That's the factory way the rocker cover is put on; no gasket, just sealer.


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You didn't see the orange goop Kezza used to patch this leak. Suzuki uses black.

[emoji12]

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^^

OK - we will check those (not a shop - another motorcyclist friend from BARF)

OOH - interesting! The choke cable was busted - installed the side choke from ProCycle - and I noticed it creeps in on its own... maybe some other adjustment is required?

That's kinda weird. It should not be able to do that.

Those same people should not have access to the welder either.


... or flat black spray paint